Crop production

Treatment of plant chlorosis with iron chelate

all ways to combat iron deficiency

Iron chlorosis is a common plant disease that manifests itself as a violation of the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves. At the same time, the leaf plate turns yellow, and the veins remain green. Iron leaf chlorosis occurs when the plant suffers from a catastrophic iron deficiency.

For example, there is little of it in the soil or there are changes in the plant's body, leading to the loss of its ability to absorb iron. To cure this disease, it is necessary to eliminate the errors in the agrotechnology of growing the affected plant and feed it with iron.

yellowing of young leaves, combined with green veins, decrease in leaf size, twisting of the edges of the leaf plate, falling off of leaves, flowers, changing the shape of buds, flowers, deterioration of the root system, in advanced cases - death of the roots, drying of the apical shoots. green

. What plants are most prone to chlorosis?

If you grow violets, you may never run into chlorosis. Chlorosis acts selectively.

Here are the top 5 plants most susceptible to this disease: gardenia azalea hydrangea clolodendrum lemon If you have purchased something from this list, be prepared for a periodic fight against yellowing of the leaves. Although, it is better to act proactively and engage in prevention.

To reduce the risk of meeting with chlorosis, you need to: 1. Properly select a substrate for the plant. Soil should be light, moisture permeable. Soil alkalization, leading to chlorosis, often occurs because of too dense soil, which retains water. 2

Watch the soil reaction. Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. Chlorosis prone plants (see top 5) adore acidified soil. Shifting the reaction towards an alkaline environment dramatically increases the risk of chlorosis. 3

Periodically watering plants with acidified water. Acidification of water is another way to bring the soil reaction into the right frame.

Very often tap water has a pH of 7, this value should be reduced to pH 5-5,5. To do this, dissolve 1 g of citric acid in 1 liter of water (at the tip of a knife). Plants are watered with this water once a week. Treatment of chlorosis with iron preparations

If your plants already have chlorosis, preventive measures will not work. Rather, it is still necessary to change the soil and take the habit of using acidified water for irrigation. But besides this, the plant will have to add iron to the diet.

It should be in chelate form - most easily absorbed even by a sick plant. After spraying and adding one of the following drugs at the root, the plant health is restored:

Ferovit (Nest M) From yellowing of leaves (Agricola) Ferrylene (Valagro) Brexyl-Fe (Valagro) Iron chelate (Mikom-reakom) Micro-Fe (Orton) Antichlorosis (Master Color)

Iron chelate acts faster if you put it on the sheet. When spraying, the nutrients penetrate the plant's tissues already within a day, while watering - after 3 days.

Therefore, many manufacturers of chelate drugs position them as fertilizers on the sheet.

Although they can be safely used for watering, only a positive effect in this case will have to wait a little longer.

Preparations for chlorosis of plants Spraying of plants with preparations for chlorosis is more effective than putting them under the iron chelate root at home The iron chelate for chlorosis can be prepared at home by yourself. In 1 liter of boiled cold water, dilute 4 g of citric acid (half a teaspoon), then add 7.5 g of iron sulphate (6 g in a teaspoon).

The result is a light orange liquid, which contains a complex salt of ferrous iron - iron chelate at a concentration of 0.5 g / l.

This solution can be used for irrigation and spraying.

In 1 liter of water dilute 10 g of copper sulfate, then 20 g of ascorbic acid is introduced into the solution.

The resulting solution is watered and chlorinated plants are sprayed. Shelf life of homemade iron chelate - 2 weeks.

Plant chlorosis is a disease that must be fought on all fronts.

Therefore, many flower growers, gardenia and hydrangea lovers, use all methods to combat the yellowing of leaves.

Among them there is a very common and, oddly enough, very effective. These are rusty nails that are gently buried in the plant pot.

The main thing in this case is the presence of rust, it can even be brushed off from rusty metal objects and added to the soil with a capricious plant.

Great method! Sometimes it helps when all other methods of chlorosis have already been tried, but have proven to be ineffective.

How to properly treat different types of chlorosis in plants, drugs and prevention

Many plants are prone to diseases such as chlorosis.

Almost every horticultural site can be found yellowed leaves and other its manifestations.

The leaves deteriorate very quickly, and if you do not help the plant to cope with the disease at the very beginning, the consequences will be quite problematic.

Gardeners recently prefer to join groups, share knowledge gained from their experience.

You can find special forums on the Internet, where you can find the answer to almost any interesting question.

The main thing is not to be left alone with the problem, but to try to find help and support.

It is difficult to cope with plant chlorosis, but this is possible if maximum effort is applied.

Types of chlorosis

Iron chlorosis

Iron chlorosis is a very common disease that occurs when the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves is disturbed. If the plant is infected, the leaf plate quickly turns yellow, but the main streaks remain green. Not to notice this is very difficult.

The plant is subject to this ailment in several cases:

If the soil picks up iron elements,

When changes occur on the trunk and leaves of a plant, and it requires additional feeding from the external environment, but does not receive it.

For the treatment of damaged landings, first of all you need to try to eliminate all known causes for which the disease could develop.

The first step is to make a sufficient amount of fertilizer in the soil, and then monitor the state of asthenia.

During this period, he will need a lot of lag and nutrients.

Magnesium chlorosis

The external signs of this disease are often similar to iron chlorosis, but not completely. The leaves of diseased plants not only turn yellow, they can change color to white, red and another. At first, the changes become noticeable only at the edges, later the changes spread to the middle of the sheet.

The main reason for the lack of magnesiumwhich develops in case of planting in light sandy soil types. You can try to change the composition of the soil surrounding the plant.

Sulfuric chlorosis

This type of disease happens when the plant lacks sulfur. First, the disease affects only the upper leaves, he manages to quickly spoil the young leaves.

After the disease begins to spread throughout the plant, affecting all the leaves.

Who first turn white, and then turn sharply yellow, leaving no streaks of a different color.

Nitrogen chlorosis

The first signs by which it can be determined that the plant has undergone this type of chlorosis are whitened veins of the lower leaves. Gradually, the entire sheet becomes white.

The main cause of the disease is the increased acidity of the soil, or vice versa, too much ash, temporary as a fertilizer.

May affect An increase in the acidity of the soil is also the excessive introduction of undecomposed organic matter, which, rotting, releases acid.

Zinc chlorosis

This type of disease is usually manifested in the form of spots on the lower row of leaves. Most often, the plants fall ill in the spring when there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil.

The main signs of chlorosis

Young leaves begin to turn yellow quicklywhile leaving bright green streaks,

  • Sheet size decreases,
  • You can watch the sheet plate quickly curl and lose its natural shape,
  • Frequent abscission of leaves and flowers during flowering,
  • The shape of flowers and buds is changing,
  • The development of the root system is worsening, in some cases the roots may die off completely or partially,
  • Quickly dry the upper parts of the shoots.

Plants that are most likely to suffer from chlorosis

The disease may have a very selective nature.

Some types of plants may never be affected by this disease, others are constantly ill.

So, for example, violets, can withstand the disease for the rest of their lives, a gardener may never notice his marks on his plantings.

But there are also plant species.which are most susceptible to the disease:

Having on the site of some of these plants, you need to constantly be alert and try to inspect their leaves and stems from time to time. Best if seen the very initial stages of the disease, it will help to deal with it faster and easier.

Prevention of chlorosis

In order to minimize the risk of disease in plants, it is possible to carry out continuous preventive measures. For example:

Choosing the right substrate for plants.

The quality of the soil has an important role in the life of any flower or tree. It should be primarily light and have good moisture permeability. If the soil is too dense or heavy, it can become alkalized. This will cause chlorosis.

Monitor soil reaction

It is important to observe the acidity of the soil. Plants that are prone to chlorosis grow, as a rule, in acidified soil. If acidity begins to rise, the development of the disease cannot be avoided. It is necessary to constantly dilute the composition of the soil with various useful components.

From time to time, water the plants with acidified water.

In the opposite case, if the acidity of the soil is too low, it is necessary to try to fix it with improvised methods.

For this, the method is well suited. watering plants with a little acidic water. It can be prepared by adding a small amount of citric acid.

It is enough to water the planting once a week with a similar solution.

Treatment of chlorosis with special preparations

If the plants are already sick, according to the preventive measures will not give any result, it is necessary to proceed to treatment.

First, it is recommended to try to change the soil, adding to its composition the required number of different elements.

After that, you need to choose drugs that will help asthenia cope with this disease.

Such drugs as:

  • Ferovit,
  • Agricola - helps to cope with the strong yellowing of the leaves,
  • Ferrylene,
  • Iron chelate,
  • Antichlorosis

The action of all these medicines is aimed at eliminating the causes of chlorosis. Treatment is usually carried out by spraying the leaves with an aqueous solution of these substances. Within a day after the procedures, you can notice the first small improvements.

You can also use these drugs to irrigate the soil in which the plants are located, this also has a positive effect, but it will begin to manifest no sooner than after a week, so you have to be patient and wait a bit.

Preparing the medicine yourself

You can try to cook Chelate iron independently at home. It is not difficult. To prepare the solution will require:

One liter of boiled water, pre-cooled to room temperature,

Four grams of citric acid, you can use the most common powder, which is sold in stores,

Two and a half grams of vitriol,

All the ingredients are mixed, the resulting solution can be watered or sprayed the leaves and stems of plants.

It is possible to store the cooked iron chelate for no more than two weeks, then its beneficial properties are lost forever.

I have long wanted to grow different plants in the country. Usually I only had flowers, but I wanted something more.

Having selected several species of fruit plants and planted them, I was faced with such a problem as chlorosis of plants. The leaves of my plantings quickly turned yellow and spoiled.

I was advised to use special solutions, spray from time to time the leaves and plants in general. Very pleased that this procedure helped.

Leaf chlorosis is a real attack for the gardener. When I had just started planting plants on the plot I did not know what measures to take and how to fight it. Of course, when some experience appeared, it became much easier.

I learned how to properly prepare the soil before planting, and by most significantly protecting the plants from being able to pick up this unpleasant sore.

I want to say that it is necessary to constantly be alert and when there is a suspicion that chlorosis starts to develop emergency measures.

Found on their site plants that are sick with leaf chlorosis. My husband and I read a lot of literature on how to properly treat them.

Fed with drugs that have improved the condition of our plantings.

I want to say that chlorosis is not such a difficult condition, you can cope with it if you try.

Treatment of plant chlorosis with iron chelate

Iron chlorosis is a common plant disease. It is characterized by impaired chlorophyll formation in the leaves.

The leaf plate turns yellow while the streaks remain green. Almost everyone involved in gardening is facing this disease.

What is chlorosis in plants, how to treat this disease?

The cause of iron chlorosis is a strong lack of iron, which may not be enough in the soil.

In addition, changes may occur in the plant itself, leading to loss of ability to absorb iron.

To eliminate the disease, it is necessary to eliminate the mistakes made in the agrotechnology of plant cultivation, and feed it with iron.

Signs of chlorosis

Chlorosis is not a fatal disease, it can be easily cured if you see characteristic symptoms in time.

Diseased culture is easily identified by the following features:

  • leaves decrease in size,
  • young leaves turn yellow, only veins remain green,
  • the edges of the sheet plate are twisted,
  • the shape of flowers and buds changes,
  • development of the root system is deteriorating,
  • apical shoots dry out.

Causes of development

If time to notice the manifestations of chlorosis, the plant can be successfully cured. To do this, you must know the causes of the disease, and they may be as follows:

  1. Insufficient amount of minerals and trace elements in the diet. Most often in the soil is not enough iron, zinc, magnesium, sulfur, lime.
  2. Infection brought by insects, fungal spores, various viruses and microorganisms.
  3. Damage to the root system, poor soil condition, lack of drainage and other germination defects.
  4. Hereditary chlorosis.

Types of disease

There are many types of leaf chlorosis, the difference of which is reflected in the lack of a certain element in the plant nutrition. To determine which microelement is missing, you should focus on external signs.

  1. Iron chlorosis. The most common type of chlorosis is iron deficiency. Characterized by yellowing sheet plate. The color of the veins remains saturated and bright. First of all young shoots are affected.The cause of this disease may be limestone soil.
  2. Magnesium chlorosis occurs with an insufficient amount of magnesium, for example, due to sandy soil type. The disease manifests itself in the same way as if there is a shortage of iron, but it is not the young leaves that suffer, but the mature ones. Symptoms in this case are similar to mosaic disease. Leaves gradually begin to change color. First, the edges are affected, then the whole plate. Greens often acquire an orange or red hue.
  3. Sulfur chlorosis can occur from a lack of sulfur in the diet. In this case, the veins of the leaves turn yellow or turn white. Then the color of the whole sheet changes.
  4. Nitrogen chlorosis. The first signs are whitened streaks of the lower leaves. Further, the discoloration systematically captures the entire leaf plate, starting from the middle. Lower leaves wither and fall. Lack of nitrogen can cause excessive ash deposition or increased acidity. The reason may be the introduction into the soil has not yet decayed organic matter.
  5. Zinc chlorosis. This disease manifests itself in the form of spots, initially spreading on the lower row of leaves. Most often, the plant is exposed to the disease in the spring due to excess nitrogen in the soil.
  6. Calcium chlorosis causes plant growth to stop, flowers, buds and ovaries to fall off. Tomatoes appear “tip rot” in the form of round necrotic spots.

Plants susceptible to chlorosis

All plants are susceptible to nutrient deficiencies. This applies to domestic crops, and those that grow on the open field, and even aquarium. But some plants are the most susceptible and, if they do not take emergency measures, they can die from chlorosis.

Most prone to disease:

  • hydrangea,
  • hibiscus,
  • various citrus fruits
  • ficuses
  • azalea,
  • gardenia,
  • primrose,
  • raspberry and currant,
  • apple and pear,
  • roses,
  • petunias
  • tomatoes,
  • cucumbers,
  • grapes
  • Strawberry.

Homemade iron chelate

Easy to make iron chelate do it yourself at home in two folk ways:

  1. Dilute 10 g of vitriol in 1 liter of water (not to be confused with copper). Add 20 g of ascorbic acid. Spray and water chlorine plants with this solution.
  2. In one liter of water dilute half a teaspoon of citric acid. Add 2.5 g of ferrous sulfate. It turns out a light orange liquid containing a complex salt of ferrous iron. This solution is used for spraying and watering plants.

Shelf life of homemade iron chelate is 2 weeks.

One of the unconventional and very common methods of dealing with chlorosis in the home is instillation of rusty nails in a plant pot. Here the main thing - the presence of rust.

It is always better to be proactive in order to prevent illness through timely feeding and quality care.

I take iron chelate in ampoules, liquid and dilute it in a 0.5-liter bottle, pour it into a spray bottle and process the plants when there is no sun. Effectively enough

I added vermiculite to the soil with microelements that kill chlorosis.

The plant can not replant, it is enough to remove the top layer of soil and add soil with vermiculite.

Ferite-containing iron, feed the plant under the root. I personally used ferovit and very pleased with the result.

I can tell from my own experience how I treated passiflora. After making a complex of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, he noticed that the leaves on the plant began to curl.

Poured a complex solution with: manganese -4.2%, iron-8.14%, copper-0.5%, boron-1.6%, zinc -1.0% cobalt-0.2%, molybdenum -0 ,one%. Improvements were noticeable after a day.

On the leaves almost lost chlorotic stains, they turned around.

Leaf chlorosis: types, causes, methods of elimination

Most higher plants have a green color of ground parts. The green color of the stems and leaves of plants gives a chemical compound of the magnesium atom with an organic complex, which is called chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is a part of special cellular organelles - chloroplasts.

Chloroplasts are those organoids of the plant cell that are responsible for the absorption and transfer of energy from sunlight. The more intensely the leaves are colored, the more chlorophyll in them, the better the energy conversion processes and the production of organic from inorganic compounds. The process of reducing chlorophyll in the leaves is called leaf chlorosis. The causes of chlorosis leaves a few.

Causes of leaf color changes are viral and bacterial diseases of plants. If the sheet plate began to change its color to a paler or yellow one starting from the leaf vein, then the plant is most likely affected by the yellow mosaic virus.

As a rule, plants are affected at the beginning of the growing season. Stripes and strokes of yellow color appear on the sheet plate, which later merge into solid spots, the sheet gradually dries out and falls.

Most often, the pathogen is in the soil, it is the soil fungus Polymyxa, its spores are transferred to the plant together with tools for tillage. This can be clearly seen on the plantings of cereals affected by fungus.

Also carriers of the yellow mosaic virus can serve various insects, such as aphids. On the planting of legumes, the vector of the yellow mosaic virus that causes leaf chlorosis are some species of aphids.

If infectious chlorosis began at the beginning of the growing season, then the pea, soybean and beans can all die; in later periods, not only the leaves are damaged, but also the flowers, which significantly delays ripening and reduces crop yields.

In addition to viruses, infectious chlorosis can cause mycoplasma-like organisms that are transported by various insects: leaflets, cicadas, nematodes.

Fruit trees and berry crops are also susceptible to infectious leaf chlorosis.

Here, pathogens can be transported together with pollen, during the flowering of plants, or with a graft material, during vaccinations.

The most susceptible are apple and stone fruit.

As a result of necrotic changes caused by chlorosis, the affected leaves die off, reducing the photosynthesis ability of plants.

In fruit trees affected by chlorosis, there is a delay in fruit ripening, and their number may decrease by half. In European countries, vineyards are severely affected by infectious chlorosis.

Vegetables may also suffer from chlorosis. Microorganisms that cause various plant diseases, accompanied by leaf chlorosis, are spread all over the globe, so prevention and treatment measures are relevant for any agricultural areas.

Due to the fact that pathogens of infectious diseases accompanied by leaf chlorosis are transmitted in several ways, control measures should first of all be aimed at:

  • soil disinfection
  • disinfection of labor tools
  • destruction of insects - carriers
  • seed disinfection

For soil disinfection use various soil fungicides.

Soil fungicides include chemicals used for treating the soil in order to destroy microorganisms that cause plant disease, as well as to destroy the vectors of these diseases, such as nematodes and others.

Tillage and prophylactic treatment of plants is carried out in early spring; for this purpose, solutions of copper, ferrous sulfate, and nitrafen are used.

A number of soil fungicides are used in a dry form, for example, heterofos granules of the preparation are applied to the soil to a depth of 10 cm around the plants, after which the plants are well shed with water.

Many gardeners do not think about the fact that such garden tools as a shovel or chopper need disinfection.

At the end of the season, the instrument can be treated with technical alcohol or rinsed with boiling water - this will kill germs, further storage in a cold room in the winter will not allow them to multiply again on the working tool.

With the threat of infection, fungicides pickle seed and planting material.

Timely treatment of the garden or vegetable garden with pesticides reduces the number of insects - carriers of pathogens of diseases associated with chlorosis.

The appearance of yellow spots on the leaves can be caused by the composition of the soil.

The main causes of non-infectious chlorosis can be a high content of lime in the soil, or a significant lack of essential minerals, or the lack of conditions for their absorption, this primarily applies to the following substances:

A surplus of zinc, copper and manganese can also lead to chlorosis. In the initial stage of non-infectious chlorosis, light colored spots appear on the leaf plate, without affecting the veins.

Drilling and dying off of the leaf begins at the edges, the tops of the shoots dry up, the young leaves are damaged more thickly and more than the old ones. To neutralize lime, colloidal sulfur is introduced into the soil or spilled with a weak solution of sulfuric acid.

With a lack of iron, the leaf blade turns yellow relatively evenly over the entire area, the veins remain green. To eliminate chlorosis in this case it is necessary to use Ferrovit or Fe + preparations according to the instructions.

With a lack of magnesium, chlorosis appears first along the edges of the leaf plate. The edges not only brighten, but also tuck down. Yellowness gradually spreads over the entire leaf, but the thickest veins and adjacent areas remain green.

The problem will eliminate the introduction of magnesium sulfate.

With a deficiency of zinc, the leaves become small, grow with yellow specks, gradually the leaf plate becomes a faded yellow color. Sowing alfalfa will help to enrich the soil with zinc.

The delay in the growth and development of plants occurs with a lack of sulfur. Leaves at first brighten, and then acquire a reddish color.

A lack of sulfur very often looks like the lack of nitrogen.

Laboratory analysis of green parts of plants and soil will help determine the exact chemical content.

The application of organic and phosphate fertilizers, in the production of which sulfur is used, will eliminate the sulfur deficiency. It should be remembered that an overabundance of certain substances is just as dangerous for leaves as a deficiency.

Therefore, when the first signs of leaf chlorosis appear, it is advisable to use the services of the agronomic laboratory and take samples of the soil from the site for analysis and possibly some parts of the plant. With timely identification of the causes of chlorosis, the adoption of measures to eliminate them, it is possible to return the plant to a healthy appearance.

Detailed information on chlorosis in the video:

Chlorosis and how to deal with it?

Usually at the end of June - the beginning July in the trees of pear, apple or cherry leaves suddenly start to lose their color: they turn light green, then yellow green, and finally yellow until they turn white. The leaf color changes quickly in 7-10 days, and ends with the leaves withering and drying out.

Fruits lacking nutrition through the leaves, grow poorly. The harvest from the affected trees is low, the fruits are small. Not laid and next year's harvest.

The trees first dry out the tops of the young shoots, then the shoots themselves, then the larger branches.

The life span of chlorine plants is reduced, and plants often die 2-3 times faster than healthy ones.

Plants (trees) diseased with chlorosis easily freeze over in winter due to insufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients (starch, sugar, lipids, lignin).

Relatively resistant to chlorosis apricot, plum, less resistant apple, not resistant pear and sweet cherry. Chlorosis grapes, black currant.

On vines, the disease manifests itself somewhat differently: the leaves turn yellow, the shoots stop growing, remaining thin and short. Leaves gradually turn brown, dry and fall.

Sick bushes have very loose clusters with small berries. Yield drops sharply.

This disease is caused prolonged drought, prolonged flooding of the garden and vineyard with water or, conversely, lack of moisture, which leads to drying out of the fertile layer of the earth, high content of lime in the soil, abrupt depletion of the land as a result of the fact that organic fertilizers were not applied for many years, lack or complete lack of soil soluble salts of iron, which usually happens with an excess of lime. Such soils have a high alkaline reaction - pH8 and above. This leads to the transition of iron into a form inaccessible for uptake by the roots, making it difficult to move from the roots to the above-ground part of the plant.

In addition, chlorosis may be caused by the toxic effect of harmful substances, viral diseases, close groundwater, incompatibility of vaccinations, abundant introduction of chicken manure to the plant.

Gardener does not have on the plot microhimla-boratorium and can not determine the yellowing of the leaves by analyzing the soil. He should be able to determine by external signs what the fruit tree needs and help it in time.

Take action

If the leaves turn yellow all over the length of the shoot means a lack of oxygen in the soil.

This is possible if watering was carried out by flooding, or there were long rains and water displaced oxygen (air) from the pores of the earth.

If organic has not been brought into the earth for a long time (manure, compost, organic residues).

So in such a land no or very few worms. In rich organic soil, worms in every cubic meter of earth are made: strokes up to a kilometer in length. On them air, water with the nutrients dissolved in it comes to roots.

Recycling Organic, worms enrich the earth with humus. When organic matter decays, gas is formed, leaving the soil, it leaves thousands of tiny holes, through which water and air enter the soil.

If organic is not applied for a long timethen the soil loses its structure, compresses sharply, the air is pushed out of the pores, the tree experiences oxygen and food starvation. After making organic matter, the soil is loosened to a depth of the forks and watered, and then kept in a loose and wet state.

If yellowing leaves escape comes from the bottom, which means that the nitrogen supply is disturbed.

Ammonium sulfate or urea (carbamide) should be added under the tree - 2 matchboxes (35 g) for 10 liters of water.

If there is humus, then it is possible to deposit 4–5 kg (half a bucket) per square meter of subcrown area and seal it to a depth of 35–40 cm (the zone of the main mass of the roots).

Cannot be made undisturbed alkaline manure and fertilizers - calcium nitrate, sodium nitrate, as well as superphosphate in excessive doses.

Azotobacterin can be applied - two or three bottle composition under the tree. The bacteria of this drug accumulate nitrogen from the air. It is possible and necessary twice, with an interval of 7-8 days, to spray the tree with a solution of urea - 2530 g on. 10 liters of water.

By yellowing the leaves from the top of the shoot - the plant lacks iron.

In the deep grooves or boreholes (35-40 cm), 400-500 g of iron sulphate must be added under the Tree and filled with water.

But it is better to dig up the ground under the tree, water it, and when the water is absorbed, pour 3-5 buckets of solution of ferrous sulfate onto the roots (100-120 g per 10 l of water).

Anti-chlorozine can be used - 100-120 g per 10 liters of water. The solution is poured on the roots, regardless of culture. But it is better to spray the pears on the leaves and shoots. After a few days, the green color will recover.

Yellowing between the veins of the leaf. The plant lacks zinc.Spray a tree above® with a solution of zinc sulphate - 20 g per 10 l of water or add 250-300 g of zinc sulphate and 2 kg of sulfur under the crown. If the trees are young (up to 10 years), the rate should be reduced by half.

If there is no zinc sulfate, then the diseased tree is sprayed twice, with an interval of 10-12 days with a solution of zineb - 40 g per 10 liters of water. But since zineb promotes the development of powdery mildew, then 80 g of colloidal sulfur must be added to the solution.

If the cause of chlorosis is steel long and heavy rains (the land is oversaturated with moisture), it is necessary to immediately plow the earth under the canopy of trees to the depth of the forks without the heel of the forks and keep all the weeds growing on it for 10-12 days. They will draw off excess water, and their roots will loosen the earth.

Plant chlorosis treatment, signs, causes of plant chlorosis - Gardener

The causes of chlorosis plants are different.

There is an infectious chlorosis of plants, which is caused by microorganisms (viruses, mycoplasmas, bacteria, fungi).

The vectors of its pathogens are often pests of plants (thrips, aphids, cycadns). For example, mycoplasmas cause characteristic diseases - jaundice.

As the infection spreads, the blood vessels of the plant become discolored, the leaves turn yellow and become chlorotic. Plant chlorosis is also caused by many fungal phytopathogens of the genera Fusarium, Verticillium, and Cladosporium.

Chlorotonic spots on the leaves of many plants appear when they are infected with alternariosis, peronospora, and other diseases.

Non-infectious, or functional, chlorosis plants develops under adverse soil and climatic conditions, as well as violations of the technology of cultivation of agricultural crops.

Chlorosis of plants is often manifested when there is a lack of nutrients - nitrogen, proteins, as well as increased acidity of the soil, when minerals become unavailable for absorption by the roots. Non-infectious chlorosis can also be caused by poor soil drainage, in which the roots become too wet, the roots are damaged, or the space is too small for them.

The main batteries can be divided into two groups: macronutrients - nitrogen (N), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), phosphorus (P), magnesium (Mg) and microelements - iron (Fe), sulfur (S), copper ( Cu), boron (B), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), chlorine (Cl).

With nitrogen deficiency symptoms of starvation of plants appear: growth is slow, stalks are thin, fibrous and hard.

On the leaves appear large yellow-green spots. As starvation increases, the growth of roots stops, they turn brown and die.

In case of acute starvation, the entire chlorophyll of the leaves disintegrates, and they become yellow in color.

Our advice:

To eliminate nitrogen starvation, fertilize with urea, ammonium nitrate, spray plants with urea, or use fertilizer with a high nitrogen content - master.

Non-infectious chlorosis of plants can most often be caused by a deficiency of minerals in the soil, such as iron, magnesium or manganese.

Signs of ferrous chlorosis plants: young leaves first acquire a light yellow color between the veins, later the whole leaf turns yellow.

With a strong iron deficiency, the lemon yellow color turns to white and yellow and the leaves die off.

Symptoms are more pronounced on alkaline and heavily limed soils.

Magnesium chlorosis plants: yellowing begins at the edges of the leaf, a triangle of green remains only at its base.

Chlorosis of the leaf blade, sometimes in the form of solid spots, begins on the periphery of the leaf. The leaves become brittle, sometimes twisting upward, in the future they fall, the plant weakens.

Chlorotic tissue turns brown and dies. Thick veins remain green. Starvation is noted on acidic soils.

Manganese deficiency: chlorosis develops first on the young leaves between the veins, and then on the old ones.

Veins retain a green color even with very strong starvation. The chlorotic tissue turns brown or becomes transparent, the tissue gradually necrotic.

Necrosis is usually single, local.

Copper deficiency manifests itself primarily on young leaves, buds and shoots. Old leaves develop chloro, growing ones fall, leaves of pale green color, on tips - dry.

Sometimes isolated hereditary chlorosis plants, which occurs as a mutation and is inherited. This property is used in the selection of ornamental plants for breeding variegated forms.

  • In order to prevent chlorosis of plants, organic and mineral fertilizers are used, carbonate soils are deoxidized or acidic soils are leached, mulching and sodding between the rows, and they destroy pests that are carriers of the infection.
  • In case of infectious chlorosis, preventive and protective measures are taken to eliminate the cause of the causative agent. Plants affected by viral and mycoplasmal infection, destroy.
  • In the treatment of non-infectious chlorosis of plants, the missing nutrients near the core of the root system are introduced into the soil, and foliar dressing is also used.
  • For plant nutrition, they produce both complex preparations and preparations with specific individual microelements. For example, the drug Brexil (Brexil), in which trace elements are in the form of an LPCA-complex (ligno-polycarboxylic acid), is used for foliar feeding. And for irrigation use chelated form of the drug. Brexil Combi is recommended for crops grown on alkaline soils, Brexil Mix for plants growing on organic or acidic soils, Brexil Multi for crops experiencing a general deficiency of nutrients and especially in need of magnesium. Separately produce Brexyl Fe, Brexyl Mg, Brexyl Mn, Brexyl Zn, Brexyl Ca.

Good results in the fight against plant chlorosis are given by the use of the drug fulvital +, which contains biologically active low molecular weight fulvic acids and trace elements - Fe, Zn, Mn, Mg, Cu, S, dissolved in acidic and alkaline media.

The drug is used to treat seeds and vegetative plants (with irrigation water).

The use of humic preparations and complex fertilizers provides vegetable cultures with macro- and microelements, preventing chlorosis, which slow down the growth and development of plants.

It should be noted that in the treatment of chlorosis, changes do not appear immediately.

Chlorous leaves will not return to the old life, however, the appearance of healthy green, young leaves - the first sign of improvement of the plant.

If the young leaves also turn out to be chlorotic, then the plants will need not only top dressing on the leaf, but also watering under the root.

Valentina SERGIENKO, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Institute of Plant Protection NAAS

Leaf chlorosis (photo gallery of plants with identified developmental disorders)

Chlorosis is not a deadly disease, and if you see its appearance in time, you can successfully cure a diseased plant by taking certain actions. But for this you need to know what caused this disease, and what methods of protection should be applied in each case.

The most common causes of chlorosis:

  1. Lack of nutrition of trace elements and minerals. This is probably the very reason that occurs most often. Plants usually lack elements such as iron, zinc, magnesium, lime, sulfur and some others.
  2. Infection. The plant can become sick with chlorosis and because of the infection, which he brought insects, flying from a diseased plant to a healthy one. It can be spores of fungi, microorganisms, various viruses.
  3. Conditions of care and landing. Sometimes chlorosis occurs due to damage to the root system of crops, lack of drainage, poor soil conditions and other growth defects.
  4. Hereditary chlorosis.

In order to carry out the correct treatment, it is necessary to determine the true cause of the disease, which is rather difficult to do.

How to find out which microelement is missing in culture?

There are many types of chlorosis, each of them is caused by the lack of one or another element in the plant nutrition, but which one exactly? This moment can be accurately determined only by making special analyzes in the laboratory, which is not possible for an ordinary gardener. Therefore, in order to determine what the culture lacks, they are guided by external signs.

In general, for any type of chlorosis, symptoms such as shrinking of the plant, a noticeable slowdown in its development, clotting of the leaves, dying of the bark on the trunks of shrubs, and the dying off of new shoots from the culture appear. The state of the “green brothers” must be constantly monitored in order not to miss the initial moment of the disease and correct the situation.

What plants are most susceptible to nutrient deficiencies?

The answer to this question is unequivocal - absolutely everything. The lack of any trace element in the diet immediately affects the growth and development of the plant. And it concerns both domestic crops and those growing on open ground. Still, there are plants that are most susceptible to nutrient deficiencies, which, if not to take emergency measures, may die from chlorosis.

Those most susceptible to chlorosis are:

  • At home - varieties of flowers such as hibiscus, various types of citrus, azaleas, rubber plants, gardenias.
  • Under natural conditions, these are fruitful shrubs, such as raspberries and currants, trees - pear and apple trees, flowers - petunias and roses. As for vegetables, cucumbers and tomatoes are the most capricious in this area, and strawberries and grapes are among the berries.

How to prevent chlorosis?

The nature of chlorosis is different. But in any case, to prevent this disease in plants, it is necessary to take certain measures. And here everything comes down to the proper preparation for planting and timely optimal care of the planted crops. To prevent chlorosis, you need to know its type and carry out certain actions. But it does not hurt to hold all the preventive measures.

Chlorosis is divided into:

  • Non-infectious. This type of chlorosis is associated precisely with the lack of trace elements in a plant of one type or another. If it is impossible to find out exactly which element is lacking in the crop, then use ready-made complex fertilizers. In them, the combination of trace elements is balanced. It is possible to distinguish such drugs as Florist Micro, Uniflor Micro, Zdraven.
  • Infectious. In this case, special attention should be paid to such a process as decontamination, and of all - the soil, tools, seeds. As a precautionary measure of the disease in the soil before planting, it is desirable to add biofungicides. They are also used for the treatment of planting material, increasing its stability.

But garden tools should be rinsed with boiling water or wiped with a cloth moistened with alcohol. Also at risk of infection with infectious chlorosis and pests - vectors of infection. Protection against them is carried out with the use of plant repellents and, as we have said many times, with the help of increasing plant immunity.

How to treat chlorosis of non-infectious origin

For the treatment of culture used as ready-made products produced by enterprises for sale, and folk recipes. As for the finished solutions, they should contain an increased amount of the substance, the shortage of which is necessary in a particular case.

As for folk remedies, their preparation takes more time, but in terms of efficiency is not inferior to ready-made ones. In any case, treatment is carried out depending on the type of chlorosis:

Iron chlorosis You can try to cure drugs such as iron chelate, ferrovit, micro-Fe, Ferrlen.

The iron chelate, which a sick culture needs, can be produced at home. To do this, there is the following recipe: iron vitriol (4 g) + citric acid (2.5 g) + water (1 l). This solution has a yellowish tint, they are sprayed and watered. It is necessary to make these procedures during the vegetative period no more than 3 times.

And it should be remembered that the iron chelate prepared at home gradually loses its beneficial and nutritive properties, and after 2 weeks the solution does not contain any available trace elements. Therefore, it should be used almost immediately after preparation, and for the next treatment to prepare a new solution.

Another recipe for dealing with iron chlorosis is associated with the use of old rusty iron nails. Such nails are either buried in the soil, where there is a shortage of iron, or placed on the surface, next to the plant, peeled rust. This is a fairly strong method, valid in the case when the store solutions could not cope.

Magnesium chlorosis They are treated with the use of such drugs as magnesium sulphate, Kalimagneziya, Dolomitic flour, Mag-Bor, in a specific dosage.

As for folk treatment, wood ash is used here, which is applied to the soil.

Sulfuric chlorosis - the fight against it is carried out using only ready mixed fertilizers containing a good amount of sulfur. Usually, such preparations, along with sulfur, contain magnesium, nitrogen, sodium. These are Azofosk with sulfur, Diammofosk with sulfur, Potassium sulfate, Kalimagneziya. By the way, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are successfully fighting sulfuric chlorosis:

  • Ammonia. Ammonium nitrate and ammonium nitrate are included. During the work with these fertilizers it is necessary to observe temperature condition, without allowing its excess. Otherwise, ignition may occur.
  • Amide. Of these, urea is most commonly used. But working with it should be very careful - with more than necessary concentration, plants can get burned.
  • Nitrate. Salt nitrate (nitrate, calcium) falls into this category, and their use for the control of chlorosis in vegetables is especially successful. It is noteworthy that nitrate fertilizers do not affect the acidity of the soil.

But you should know that without exception, nitrogen fertilizers do not use during the flowering period of crops - they can adversely affect the formation of buds and their development. And in fast-growing crops (cucumbers, zucchini) nitrates accumulate in fruits.

Zinc chlorosis effectively cured by the following drugs: Zinc oxide, zinc sulphate, zinc superphosphate.

Calcium chlorosis eliminated by adding to the soil of ground eggshell, slaked lime, wood ash. Ammonia nitrogen reduces the intake of calcium in plant tissue, and nitrate nitrogen - increases.

General recommendations for the application of dressings

When carrying out the “treatment” of cultures infected with chlorosis with the help of solutions, fertilizing, fertilizers, etc., one should always observe the recommended amount and dosage indicated on the package and not go beyond this. After all, an overabundance of any element, like its deficiency, can also lead to dire consequences for culture.

If it is not known exactly which element is lacking in culture, it is best to start using low-dose complex fertilizers, which contain the main nutrient elements, the shortage of which occurs in plants most often. Bio-master, Mortar, Universal, Akvarin - these are some of the popular complex feedings. But most of all we trust Uniflor fertilizers - they gradually give away minerals, without contaminating the soil with salts. Yes, and then they were refused, but more on that later.

It is not at all necessary to resort to store-based drugs - plant nutrition can also be effectively carried out with handy tools that are rich in essential trace elements. For example, the ash generated from burning wood (namely wood, straw, leaves, and not any plastic) is very good as a feed for flowers, because it contains a sufficient amount of magnesium, iron, phosphorus. The ashes are either mixed with the soil when the plant is planted / transplanted, or the top layer of soil is sprinkled with ashes.

As for irrigation, for these purposes, the following home-made solutions have proven themselves well:

  1. One tbsp of ash per liter of water.
  2. Water, which washed cereals.
  3. Onion peel, boiled in water, and infused for 2 hours.

But, even when treating chlorosis with the help of such seemingly harmless means, one should do it in dosage, observing the plant's response to feeding. It is clear that after seeing the chlorotic signs on the plant, the first reaction of the beginning gardener will be an attempt to save the seedling.

But try to look wider: most likely, due attention was not paid to soil fertility in your site, excess salts have accumulated in it, and urgent measures are needed not to treat the plants, but to improve the soil microflora. Then our project “ECO Garden for All” will help you in finding information on how to restore the soil and introduce the principles of organic farming on your plot. (Oh, it smacks of a little self-praise. But what to do? Should we save the site, and let it be our joint efforts, eh?)

The full recovery of the culture after the treatment can be observed only when new young green leaves appear on the plants, not spoiled by a white, yellow, orange color. Well, the previously damaged leaves, of course, will not be painted again. We hope, according to the proposed photos and descriptions, it will now be easier for you to determine what caused the chlorosis of the leaves of your plants.

How to deal with chlorosis in indoor plants

In order to create a cozy and comfortable atmosphere in the house, you can safely use houseplants, as they are an essential attribute of the interior. Most often, a high decorative effect indicates vulnerability and susceptibility to diseases and pests. One of the most common illnesses is chlorosis of plants, and for what reasons it occurs, and how to choose the right treatment - we will now sort it out.

What kind of disease and what is dangerous

If you notice that the leaves of the indoor plant turned yellow or turned white, this may signal the presence of such a disease as chlorosis. It causes a violation of the release of chlorophyll in the foliage, which, accordingly, slows down vital photosynthesis. Roughly speaking, since chlorophyll is responsible for the green color of the leaves, their bright saturated color indicates that the substance is present in large quantities in them. The disease cannot be called very dangerous, but in advanced cases the death of the plant is not excluded. In order to prevent this, you must always be on the alert and know the main causes and symptoms of the appearance of this disease.

Causes of infection

Most often, the cause of infection is the lack of minerals, it is also called non-infectious chlorosis. Lack of iron, zinc, magnesium, nitrogen and other beneficial substances create a favorable background for the development of the disease. An excess or lack of moisture can also provoke ailment. High levels of lime and salt can also cause infections. Viruses can also provoke the development of infectious chlorosis, although they are also capable of carrying pests.

Signs of defeat

Determining on the eyes of which particular substance is missing is quite difficult, but possible. Common signs for all types of chlorosis are growth retardation, the appearance of smaller leaves, discoloration of the veinlets and the plate itself, young or old shoots. The fact that a plant is unhealthy can also be determined by flowers, they change their shape and become unattractive. Suffer and roots that begin to grow worse, and if you do not pay attention to it in time, then die at all.

Iron deficiency - The most common problem due to which the disease develops. Iron deficiency manifests itself in the form of yellowing of the leaf plate, but at the same time the color of the veins on the foliage does not change and remains bright and saturated. The first affected young shoots.

When in soil not enough sulfur the disease begins to infect young foliage, but at the same time, the veinlets suffer first, and then it spreads to the whole plate. With high acidity of the soil, there may be a shortage of nitrogen. In this case, the veins on the lower foliage will turn yellow, and then the entire leaf will change color.

If the soil is observed high nitrogen content this can lead to zinc deficiency. It in turn appears on mature shoots, and is characterized by the formation of reddish and yellowish dots on the foliage, which can later cause a discoloration.

Houseplants are most prone to chlorosis

Let's look at plants that are more prone to this disease, and during planting of which, the process should be controlled so that they remain healthy and there are no unpleasant problems with cultivation.

  1. Azalea
  2. Ficus
  3. Hibiscus
  4. A variety of citrus fruits
  5. Gardenia
  6. Clerodendrum
  7. Abutilon
In these colors, more chance of contracting chlorosis, therefore, it is necessary to properly select the soil for planting and provide them with proper care, and at the first manifestations of chlorosis provide immediate assistance.

Preventive measures

The best preventive measure is to comply with the rules of planting and following the recommendations for the care of the plant. If fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers is carried out in a timely manner and the soil is properly moistened, the risk of occurrence of any disease, including chlorosis, is very small.

Methods of struggle

If the disease has already been diagnosed, special pharmacy and homemade preparations the action of which will be no less effective when applied from chlorosis plants. In order to prepare the medicine at home, you need citric acid, iron sulphate and water (1 l), which must be boiled beforehand and cooled. In cold water, you need to dissolve half a teaspoon of ascorbic acid and 2.5 g of ferrous sulfate. As a result, we get iron chelate which can be watered and sprayed sick plants. Store the solution prepared at home, can be no more than 14 days.

Pharmacy drugs are faster and more effective. After applying them, the result is almost immediately noticeable. With the help of various compositions with a high content of iron chelate, the plant quickly recovers and returns to its vital rhythm. The most common drugs for chlorosis are Ferrovit, Fe + and Ferrilen. Apply them according to the instructions, by spraying or add to water for irrigation. In the first case, the drug starts its effect much faster and the result will not have to wait long. Watering a plant with medicine is no less effective, but its action comes a little slower than when the drug comes in contact with foliage.

It is always better to be proactive, and to prevent various ailments with the help of quality care and timely feeding room pets. But now, even if the plants get sick with a common disease like chlorosis, we know how to treat it.

What plants are most prone to chlorosis?

If you grow violets, you may never run into chlorosis. Chlorosis acts selectively. Here are the top 5 plants most affected by this disease:

If you have purchased something from this list, be prepared for a periodic fight against yellowing of the leaves. Although, it is better to act proactively and engage in prevention.

Plant chlorosis: prevention

To reduce the risk of meeting with chlorosis, you need:

1. Select the right substrate for the plant.

The soil should be light, moisture-permeable. Soil alkalization, leading to chlorosis, often occurs because of too dense soil, which retains water.

2. Watch the soil reaction

Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. Chlorosis prone plants (see top 5) adore acidified soil. Shifting the reaction towards an alkaline environment dramatically increases the risk of chlorosis.

3. Periodically water the plants with acidified water.

Acidification of water is another way to bring the soil reaction in the right frame. Very often tap water has a pH of 7, this value should be reduced to pH 5-5,5. To do this, in 1 liter of water dissolve a few grains of citric acid (at the tip of the knife). Plants are watered with this water once a week.

Treatment of chlorosis with iron preparations

If your plants already have chlorosis, preventive measures will not work. Rather, it is still necessary to change the soil and take the habit of using acidified water for irrigation. But besides this, the plant will have to add iron to the diet. It should be in chelate form - most easily absorbed even by a sick plant. After spraying and adding one of the following drugs at the root, the plant health is restored:

  • Ferovit (Nest M)
  • From yellowing leaves (Agricola)
  • Ferrylene (Valagro)
  • Brexil-Fe (Valagro)
  • Iron Chelate (Micom Reak)
  • Micro-Fe (Orton)
  • Antichlorosis (Master Color)

Iron chelate acts faster if you put it on the sheet. When spraying, the nutrients penetrate the plant's tissues already within a day, while watering - after 3 days. Therefore, many manufacturers of chelate drugs position them as fertilizers on the sheet. Although they can be safely used for watering, only a positive effect in this case will have to wait a little longer.

Spraying plants with drugs for chlorosis is more effective than putting them under the root

Iron chelate at home

Iron chelate for chlorosis can be prepared at home by yourself.

  • In 1 liter of boiled cold water, 4 g of citric acid (half a teaspoon) is diluted, then 2.5 g of ferrous sulfate is added (6 g in a teaspoon). The result is a light orange liquid, which contains a complex salt of ferrous iron - iron chelate at a concentration of 0.5 g / l. This solution can be used for irrigation and spraying.
  • In 1 liter of water, 10 g of ferrous sulfate is diluted, then 20 g of ascorbic acid is introduced into the solution. The resulting solution is watered and chlorinated plants are sprayed.

Shelf life of homemade iron chelate - 2 weeks.

Cooking iron chelate at home

Unconventional method - rusty nails from chlorosis

Plant chlorosis is a disease that must be fought on all fronts. Therefore, many flower growers, gardenia and hydrangea lovers, use all methods to combat the yellowing of leaves. Among them there is a very common and, oddly enough, very effective. These are rusty nails that are gently buried in the plant pot. The main thing in this case is the presence of rust, it can even be brushed off from rusty metal objects and added to the soil with a capricious plant. Great method! Sometimes it helps when all other methods of chlorosis have already been tried, but have proven to be ineffective.

Infectious nature

A significant change in the natural color of the leaf cover is often manifested when a plant or a bacterium is damaged. If the leaves quickly changed their shade, becoming more pale or yellow, then there is a chance that they were affected by the dangerous yellow mosaic virus.

In most cases, the disease attacks plants at the beginning of the growing season, with the result that the leaf plates are covered with yellow strokes and stripes. As the disease progresses, they turn into solid spots, and then the leaf begins to slowly dry out and fall off. As is known, the causative agent of the disease is a specific soil fungus called Polymyxa. It is found in the upper layers of the soil and is transferred to the cultivated culture with an infected tool.

Also, the virus is carried by all sorts of insects, including aphids. This is especially often seen on the planting of plants from the legume family, where different types of aphids often live.

If the infection began to infect a plant at the beginning of the growing season, then after a short time it may simply die. The lack of proper treatment leads to damage not only to the leaves, but also to the flowering elements, which play a key role for full ripening and fruiting.

Often the appearance of chlorosis is due to the activity of mycoplasma-like organisms.which can be carried on the green parts by the following insect species:

In addition to indoor plants and vegetable crops, fruit trees and berry bushes suffer from chlorosis. In this case, the disease is of a slightly different nature - the pathogen enters it through pollen or during vaccination activities. Most often, chlorosis affects apple and stone fruit. Due to significant necrotic changes that are the result of the development of the disease, the affected leaf cover begins to die off, and the yield indicators are markedly reduced. Also, the plant stops the natural process - photosynthesis.

Infected trees, bushes or garden plantations cease to bear fruit normally, and the time of fruit ripening slows down considerably. Also their quantity decreases. Gardeners from European countries talk about the mass destruction of vineyards from chlorosis.

Fighting disease

If the cause of chlorosis is determined, it remains to find an effective way to combat it. As is well known, the causative agent of a dangerous disease can reach the culture in a variety of ways. Respectively, therapeutic measures should be radical and consist of a number of measures:

  1. Complex soil disinfection.
  2. Disinfecting the instruments with which cultures are processed.
  3. To combat insects capable of carrying the virus.
  4. Seed cleaning.

To qualitatively disinfect the soil, you can apply a number of highly effective fungicides. These include chemicals that are popular among gardeners and perfectly kill microorganisms - pathogens.

It is customary to begin treatment activities in early spring using solutions of copper and iron vitriol, as well as Nitrafen.

Some fungicidal preparations are served dry. Among them are the granules of Heterophos, which go down 10 centimeters into the soil around the cultivated crop, and then carefully shed water.

Some owners of gardens and orchards do not pay enough attention to the fact that all garden tools need to be disinfected. At the end of the season, hoe and shovel need to be disinfected with a solution of technical alcohol or boiling water. Such actions will be able to clear them from all sorts of parasites and microbes. In the cold season, tools are kept in a cold closet, since there dangerous microorganisms are practically powerless.

If there is a threat of infection, it is necessary to conduct a comprehensive treatment of seed and planting material. The sooner this is done, the more successful the further cultivation of plants will be. Pesticides are used as drugs that significantly reduce the number of harmful insects that carry the pathogen.

Noncommunicable causes

Often the cause of the development of chlorosis are unfavorable conditions, including poor soil composition.If there is too much lime in the substrate or there is no optimal mineral balance, the plant will begin to fade and lose the natural color of the leaves and stems.. Among the most key elements, the lack of which causes chlorosis, should be highlighted:

Nevertheless, not only the lack of individual elements leads to chlorosis, but also their surplus. It is known that elevated levels of zinc, copper and manganese are among the most common causes of disease progression. Initially, light spots cover only some parts of leaf covers, without affecting the veins.

Over time, drilling and dying off of the leaves begins, and then - tops of the shoots. In the area of ​​increased risk are young leaf plates that do not have the desired immunity. To neutralize the lime, colloidal sulfur should be added to the substrate or treated with a solution of sulfuric acid in low concentration.

If the plant does not get the right amount of iron, leaf covers begin to turn yellow quickly, while the veins retain a green tint. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to apply the highly effective means of "Ferrovit" or "Fe +". Timely treatment is the key to successfully combating non-infectious chlorosis.

With a shortage of magnesium loss of natural color is evident from the edges of the leaves. In this case, they begin to lighten, and then tuck down. Over time, the yellowness spreads all over the leaf, while the thickest and strongest veins remain intact. To avoid the progression of chlorosis, it is enough to treat the plant with magnesium sulfate.

Zinc deficiency causes leaf chopping, as well as the appearance of yellow specks on their surface. Over time, leaf covers become faded yellow. To solve the problem, it is enough to plant alfalfa near the crop.

Lack of sulfur is the reason for the slowdown in development. In this case, the leaves begin to acquire a light shade, and then turn red.

Symptoms of the problem are almost the same as in the absence of an optimal amount of nitrogen. Sometimes to determine the element that is in short supply, laboratory analysis is required.

Most vulnerable plants

To make a list of the most vulnerable plants to the development of chlorosis, it is necessary to evaluate their biological description. There is no unequivocal answer to this question, because almost all green spaces negatively respond to the lack of important elements or the activity of pathogens. And at risk are both domesticated plants and wild, growing on open ground. Nevertheless, representatives of a separate group are so afraid of the disease that they may die from it.

So, The most susceptible to chlorosis plants are:

  1. Home - different varieties of hibiscus, citrus, azaleas, gardenias and rubber plants.
  2. In the natural environment - fruitful shrubs, including currants and raspberries, pear, apple, petunias, roses. Among vegetable crops, there are representatives of the solanaceous family, and from the berries - grapes and strawberries.

Watch the video: How to Identify & Treat Iron Deficiency in Your Plants (January 2020).