Crop production

Planting irises and caring for them

It is no coincidence that fragile and tender irises got their name in honor of the goddess of the rainbow: these flowers surprise with a wealth of colors and a variety of appearance. In total there are more than 250 types of irises, of which at least 20 are actively grown in Russia.

They attract experienced gardeners not only with their pretty appearance, but also with unusual flowering times. They seem to fill the pause between spring and summer flowers and are perfect for those who want to always see a blooming garden.

With all the external fragility it is unpretentious plants, and the cultivation of irises in the area does not require much difficulty.

General description and varieties of irises

Not everyone knows, then under the name "iris" there are three types of plants at once: these are the root irises and onion varieties common in our country, which are also divided into several groups.

These include Juno, Xypium and Iridodictum. For planting in flowerbeds, root irises are more commonly chosen, which are often called “cockerels” or “iris”.

The most common variety of irises - bearded cockerels.

  • Such an unusual name they received because of the particular shape of the flower, which really somewhat resembles a head with a comb.
  • Bearded irises are the most unpretentious variety, but far from the only one.
  • Popular are also dwarf, blue, Japanese irises, and onion varieties even more.
  • Selection work continues today, so perhaps in the future new interesting varieties will begin to appear.

All rhizomatous irises have sword-shaped flat leaves, growing in the lower part of the peduncle on the stem of leaves there. Peduncles may be several, in late spring large single flowers with a pleasant aroma appear on them. Each flower has 6 petals, which can have the most diverse color. The lower petals go down, and in color they may differ from the top.

When the petals fall off, a fruit-box with seeds is formed on the peduncle, which are used for selective breeding of the flower.

According to the color of the petals, irises are divided into one-color, two-color, two-tone, fringed and iridescent. The latter version has a very unusual coloring, in which one tone is poured into another. Elegant and at the same time modest irises can turn into a perfect decoration for the site.

Hello, dear readers!

Continue to talk about irises - the amazing colors of our garden. Earlier we talked about their history and classification, and now it's time to learn about planting irises and care for them.

In this article we will talk about bearded irises, as they are very popular among summer residents.

When they bloom, they no longer have any rivals and there is not a single one among them, and each of them has an amazing fragrance.

In most regions of our country, they grow well, but this is subject to all the nuances of agricultural technology.

Not knowing what the irises love and what they don't like can wait a long time - when they bloom.

Site selection and soil preparation

First of all, we will choose at the summer cottage a suitable place for planting irisesBecause a good and abundant blooming of irises depends on it.

It is best if it is open and sunny, but protected from the wind. If it is impossible to protect from winds, then it is necessary to use supports during the flowering of irises (especially tall ones), otherwise the flower stalks may not withstand the pressure of the wind and break.

Well tolerated irises and light shading, especially in the afternoon. By the way, it has long been noted that the irises grow well near the apple trees.

In a very shaded place, our iris at first ceases to bloom, and later their growth is also disturbed.At first, they can still bloom because young or newly planted plants require much less light than adults.

It is possible to grow irises on any soils, but they like more light loamy and sandy loams with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

And if in your area acidic soil, the irises will grow well, but will not bloom. In addition, irises growing on acidic soils can cause such a dangerous disease as bacteriosis.

Therefore it is necessary to liming the soil. Neutralize its acidity can also be ground chalk or wood ash.

If the soils are heavy, they can be significantly improved by adding sand, peat, or old 3-5 year old compost.

Peat soils are improved by adding organic matter, or you can add more heavier soil.

And still the irises do not like the overmoistening of the soil (except, of course, the marsh or iris iris) and the close occurrence of groundwater.

Therefore, for their landing choose a site higher. But at the same time, our iris easily tolerate flooding of landings with melt water in early spring, if the air temperature does not rise above + 2-5ºС.

And if the temperature at this time is above 7 ºС, then in the rhizomes the storage of reserve substances begins and the plant may die.

Although irises and sukholubiva, but still they have periods when the need for watering increases, namely: young planting, budding and flowering, the period of active growth of the vegetative mass.

It is noticed that the irises like to grow on moderately fertile soils, but do not tolerate the introduction of fresh manure (rhizomes can rot).

Therefore, it is best to select such areas for planting, where for a long time manure was applied and this caused the earth to become black, crumbly and light.

So, we have chosen a place for irises, and now we will start preparing the soil for planting.

We dig up the earth on the bayonet of a shovel and carefully select all the roots of perennial weeds.

Pay special attention to the removal of the roots of such hard-to-root plants as: wheatgrass, sow thistle, sleep, and creeper.

Under digging, if necessary, you can make compost or well-rotted manure.

It is advisable to prepare a plot for irises beforehand, so that by the time of planting the soil has already settled and it is possible to observe the correct depth of planting.

Selection of planting material

When buying planting material irises, you should carefully look at:

  • firstly - the size of the rhizome itself, because the larger it is, the better it takes root, it grows faster and blooms earlier,
  • secondly - are the rhizomes healthy, are there any signs of diseases on them,
  • thirdly, whether the vegetative buds are well formed, but at the same time there should be no active vegetative growth,
  • fourthly, the rhizomes should be dry, but not overdried.

In that case, if you buy planting material on the market, then the surest way to purchase exactly the variety that you want is to try to buy a tuber together with the peduncle.

And if you already grow irises and they have reached the age of 4-5 years, then planting material for further reproduction of irises can be obtained by dividing the rhizomes of these plants.

Irises over time grow in breadth and the center of the bush gradually disappears. Therefore, it is advisable to update the landing every five years.

Divide, plant

It is possible to divide an expanded rhizome practically at any time, but still it is best to do it shortly after flowering (after about 10-14 days), since it is during this period that the roots are actively growing.

Plants planted at this time, firstly, have time to root well before the cold weather, and secondly, they bloom in the first year after planting.

The rhizome of the iris is quite large and consists of individual thickened links - annual shoots.

First of all, we carefully dig it out along with the roots and leaves. I recommend doing this with a fork.

Then we carefully examine the rhizome and divide it into separate planting areas.

For planting, single or triennial units with good roots and leaf fans are best.

It is possible to divide the rhizome in two ways: first, it is best to break it with your hands, second, cut it with a knife, but after each operation it is necessary to disinfect the knife in a solution of potassium permanganate.

To prevent the development of such diseases as bacteriosis, our delenki should be kept for 1-2 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate (10 g per 10 liters of water), and then dried thoroughly for 3-5 hours.

Recently I read that it is better to plant delenki into the ground 1-2 weeks after dividing the bushes, since during this time the cuts are fully tightened and the measly tubercles are outlined.

In addition, signs of disease may also appear, which will make it possible to treat delenki in time with fungicides and prevent the further spread of the disease.

I haven’t tried to do this yet and usually plant the delenki the next day, after examining them very carefully, in order to exclude areas affected by bacteriosis or soft rot.

If they are found, we carefully cut them out and then within 20-30 minutes we disinfect the rhizomes in a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

After this treatment, it is good to dry them in bright sun for 6-8 hours.

For planting, we select the best delenki, but I do not recommend throwing out the irises left after cutting the rhizome of irises.

Remove the damaged parts from them, powder the cuts with crushed charcoal and plant them on a separate bed.

They can also give life to new plants that bloom not immediately, but 2-3 years after planting.

For irises it is best to make separate flower gardens, the so-called - iridariums. The iridarium is always arranged on a raised ridge about 20 cm high.

Even if you have sandy soil, it is still better to make a raised ridge. Thereby we will avoid stagnation of water both in early spring and in rainy weather.

And the irises grow very well on the slopes, as they do not linger too much water.

Before planting, cut the leaves and delenok roots: cut the leaves into a cone, leaving about 10-15 cm of their length, and cut the roots to 10 cm as well.

We make landing holes at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other (for tall irises) and at a distance of 20 cm for dwarfs.

If you intend to plant irises in two rows, then the distance between the rows is better to do about 50 cm.

In order for the plants not to grow towards each other and the rhizomes are not intertwined, try planting delenki according to the head-to-tail scheme. This means that the “head” is part of the delenka with a fan of leaves, and the “tail” is the place of attachment to the old rhizome.

If you want to plant irises around, then the plants need to have "tails" in the center of the circle.

We make the hole about 10 cm deep, then we make a mound of earth in it and place our delicion on it, gently straightening the roots on the sides of the mound.

And now, attention! The most important thing in this operation is to correctly determine the depth of the planting.

After all, if deeply deepened, the iris will grow poorly and will not bloom, and if the planting is too shallow, the rhizomes can be damaged during the cold season.

Therefore, we plant delenki to a depth of no more than 3 cm, that is, almost at ground level.

So, with the depth we decided, the roots spread out, then we sleep the hole with earth and gently seal it with our hands.

After planting the irises we water, trying to prevent water from falling on the leaves.

Iris care

To our irises bloom profusely and not sick, it is necessary to ensure proper care for them. I offer you a monthly plan for caring for our killer whales:

April. Immediately after the snow melts, we will inspect the planting and remove all the remaining dead leaves, burn the ground, cover the shelter, but do not remove it so that the late frosts do not damage the irises.

Freeing irises from winter shelter as soon as there is no threat of return frost.

We carry out the first feeding with nitrogen fertilizers (urea or calcium nitrate) introducing them along the edges of the bushes.

Do not just feed the new planting irises, because they have not yet fully formed the root system and can only harm the plant.

It is also good for the prevention of diseases to shed the planting with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or XOM.

May. Dwarf varieties of irises are blooming, which it is desirable to feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In this case, it is always worth remembering such a golden rule - it is better to underfedge the irises than to overfeed.

Faded inflorescences gently break out or cut off at ground level so that the rhizome does not stagnate water.

Higher varieties of irises are actively growing at this time.

If the weather is dry, then killer whales need watering. Watering is often not worth it, it is much better if we water the plants in 3-4 days, but more abundantly.

After each watering, do not forget to loosen the ground. We also perform weeding regularly, as irises do not like competition very much.

June. This month begins the mass flowering of our killers.

We feed the plants a second time, regularly remove wilted flowers and cut off completely faded flower stalks.

It is recommended on the irises planted last year to pick off the emerging flower-bearing shoots to enable the plant to develop intensively.

July. This is probably the best month for transplanting and dividing irises.

However, it is possible to replant an iris bush with a large lump of earth in any other month, but not later than mid-September.

The root system should develop well so that the plant can go to wintering already strong.

But to divide the irises and sit down is still better in July.

August. At the beginning of the month we are carrying out the third feeding of plants, since it is this month that intensive growth of the green mass of killer birds takes place, as well as the laying of flower buds of the next season.

We feed only phosphate-potassium fertilizers, nitrogen is completely excluded.

Do not forget about watering (if the weather is dry), and about loosening, and about weeding.

If you have remontant varieties of irises, then they bloom at this time.

September. In September, the first frost is possible. After them, the leaves of irises usually turn yellow and die off. They must be removed.

From mid-September, do not make any transfers.

At the end of the month, the last time weed irises and no longer disturb their roots.

And even if we note that a weed has sprouted inside a bush, then we should not pull it out. Best to just cut it off.

From September 15, completely stop watering iridarium.

October. This month we will be engaged in the preparation of winter frogs.

We cut the leaves in the form of a cone, leaving a height of 10-15 cm, and in any case, do not leave it here on the garden bed for the winter.

Comfortable wintering

Due to the fact that the last few years in November and December we do not have a steady snow cover, it is advisable to cover the landing of killer cars for the winter.

Otherwise, flower buds, laid during the summer, can die from frost.

Flower growers use various methods of shelter, for example, this: first, the rhizomes fall asleep with dry oak leaves, then we roll up the earth to a height of about 8-10 cm.

You can do it differently - we roll up the earth, and then we cover it with a sheet, straw or reed on top.

I do not advise to use for shelter such materials as: peat, sawdust, sphagnum, sand — they absorb moisture very much.

If the winter is expected to be too harsh, then it is possible to additionally cover the irises with a dense covering material, having previously installed a low wire frame.

In the spring, do not forget to remove the shelter in time, free the rhizomes from the excess land, so that they do not rot.

Why irises do not bloom

Quite often, gardeners complain that the iris do not want to bloom. What could be the reasons?

Here are some of them:

  • Too deep landing. The rhizome should protrude from the ground and be warmed by the sun. Planted deeply the plant will intensively grow the leaves and it will not come to flowering.
  • Lack of light. Only on bright and sunny areas irises show themselves in all their glory.
  • Lack of space for growth. If you do not transplant flowers for a long time, then over time they are pressed so tightly against each other that there is no place left for the peduncles.
  • Features varieties. Before planting, pay special attention to what the requirements of this variety are for soil, for illumination, for top dressing and for moisture. It is very important! After all, some varieties do not get along well with each other, others perfectly complement each other.
  • Wrong wintering. Covering irises for the winter should be on time, because if we cover too early, then the plant can snuffle. And if we are late with shelter, then - freeze slightly. A number of varieties, such as Siberian, shelters are generally not required.

So, dear readers, we figured out how to properly divide the irises, plant and care for them. I hope you will not have problems with growing these excellent flowers.

I want to give you the words that I read recently and which I really liked.

“Love irises, this extraordinary flower, not only during the flowering period. As the iris lays flower buds, so we must lay our care in its future bloom, and the main feeding of all flowers is our love for them! ”

And in conclusion, I advise you to watch a video where you will clearly see how to properly divide and plant irises.

Secrets of planting and caring for irises

Irises - cute flower with a "delicious" name. This plant - a representative of the genus Kasatikov, for which it received the popular name "kasatiki". Most often in natural conditions, the plant is found in Europe, Asia, North Africa, as well as in North America. In our area grows more than 250 species.

Irises - the very plant that will make your garden blooming in between the flowering of early spring and summer flowers.

The roots of iris - filiform. Peduncles on one plant can be both several and one, they are annuals. On flat, sword-shaped leaves there is a slight patina. The leaves are located next to the peduncle in the form of a fan, but on the stem of the leaves almost none.

The iris flowers are usually either single 6-lobed flowers, or they are collected in inflorescences. Iris flower can be completely different colors.

And how to grow this miracle on your site, we will tell in this article.

Features of planting irises in spring

Iris is a plant that can winter in the ground, but the iris propagate most often in the spring. If you decide to decorate your garden with these flowers, you need to know exactly how to plant irises in the spring.

For planting irises, you can use material grown by yourself or purchased in a store: in both cases, you need to treat the roots of the plant with “Ecogel” or “Zircon”. This will contribute to the early germination of the root system.

Before planting a plant, it is necessary to examine the roots, remove diseased or damaged ones, and also cut off long roots. After pruning, the root system should be immersed in a fairly concentrated solution of potassium permanganate (dark pink) and kept in it for 20 minutes.

The soil should not be too wet, loamy, with a high level of acidity. Root water - close to the rhizome. The landing process is very simple. Pour the sand into the shallow holes in a hill, carefully place the rhizome in a horizontal position on the sand and sprinkle it on top with the ground, but so that the upper part of the root system remains above the ground.

From above the plant should be watered plentifully. It is not necessary to tamp the soil around the flower. The distance between the flowers should be at least 50 cm. If the weather outside is too hot, the bush should be drenched. Re-watering is carried out on day 5 after planting.

Features of planting irises in autumn

Florists vied with each other about whether it is possible to plant the irises in the fall in the ground. Experienced flower growers say it is possible, but there are nuances in this planting.

Preparing the plant for planting in the fall is the same as preparing for spring planting.

The roots should be divided into annual links, carefully cut off the longest, rotten and diseased, then lower the root system into a solution of potassium permanganate saturated pink. Leave on for 15-20 minutes.

Then the roots need to be dried in the sun for 4-5 hours. The plant is lowered into the hole with sand, sprinkled with soil and watered. It is necessary to maintain the distance between plantings: from 15 to 50 cm, depending on the selected grade.

Before the onset of cold weather, young plants should be covered with spruce leaves, sawdust, or a shelter made of scrap materials: boards, roofing felt, films.

The combination of irises in a flower bed with other plants

Irises amaze with their beauty, variety of colors of violet, lilac, lavender, fuchsia. Considering the fact that the root system of the iris is horizontal and is located very close to the surface of the earth, it is better to select plants that “sit” deeper in the company of these flowers.

Iris looks good in the design of tracks and alleys, in the "company" with marigolds, chives, peonies, spikes, tulips.

Irises look very beautiful in combination with low-growing plants, which it sets off favorably. To do this, it is better to choose single-colored irises of the same type. A successful landing will be a place with stones or an artificially created composition with large cobblestones that can be put around a flower.

On the flowerbed, you can place the plant with undersized coniferous bushes and trees. If you want to diversify the composition, you can add Dunford iridicodums to it - this plant looks very similar to iris and is representative of the same species. These two flowers very favorably emphasize the beauty of each other.

Subtleties care for irises in the period of budding and flowering

Growing irises in the open field involves the observance of some rules in the care of them. Irises - Undemanding plants, they just need a warm, bright place, moist soil and timely feeding.

Iris is a flower that normally tolerates drought, but during flowering and budding it is better not to allow the soil to dry out. To do this, water the plant immediately, as soon as you notice a dry "crust" of soil around the bush. It is also necessary to loosen the soil from time to time.

  • first feeding you need to spend at the beginning of the growing season, immediately after the snow melts,
  • second feeding held at the very peak of budding,
  • third time The plant is fed 3 weeks after flowering.

Fertilizer need to measure: one flower - no more than 15 g. If you decide not to fertilize the plants, then be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years of growth in one place the irises will begin to lose their lush colors and die.

If the iris grows in a place where strong winds blow, it must be protected from them by building a shelter, for example, from a film.

Harmful to irises and weeds, so you need to get rid of them.

Storing iris rhizomes

Frequently on the forums they ask: is it necessary to dig up irises for the winter? This is not necessary, but if you have already dug them out, then we will tell you how to properly store the dug root. If you want to keep your material safe and sound, then it is best to sanitize it, remove thin and long roots and plant it in the ground. However, the iris can be saved as a root.

Preparation of rhizomes of irises for storage consists of several simple steps:

  • cleaning (it is necessary to clean the root from the ground)
  • trimming (cut all diseased areas, remove long and thin roots)
  • disinfection (you can use a solution of potassium permanganate)
  • drying (the root should not be packed while wet)
  • packaging (to choose the right material for packaging)
If everything is clear with pruning, disinfection and drying, then storage may be a little difficult. So, It is best for storage to choose a cardboard box or a wooden box, laying the bottom of sawdust coniferous trees.

Separately taken each delenka (even the smallest) should be wrapped in natural fabric or paper, placed in a box, but not too close one to one. Such storage will allow you in the spring not to think about where to get healthy and high-quality planting material.

Transplantation and reproduction of irises

Transplanting irises to another place is a controversial issue among gardeners. Some say that it is possible to replant all year round, while others argue that it is better to replant in early spring or early autumn. Most experts are inclined to the second opinion. Then in spring the plants will bloom.

Iris transplant - The process is rather complicated, but entertaining. The action algorithm for transplanting irises is as follows:

  1. Carefully dig up the bush and clean it from the ground. If the bush is too thickly smeared with earth, you can rinse it with water without damaging the roots.
  2. The root system and the entire bush should be examined for mechanical damage or disease.
  3. The rhizome is cut with a very sharp blade, but so that each division has a back and several leaves.
  4. The roots should be cut with sharp scissors at an angle and dip the layers in a medium concentration of potassium permanganate solution.
  5. Sections on the plant need to be powdered with sulfur mixed with activated charcoal.
  6. Dry the material in the sun, occasionally turning it over.
  7. Plant irises in harvested wells at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other.

The ground in the hole should be moderately fertilized and hydrated. After transplanting the ground around the bush is not necessary to tamper, but a little water - necessarily.

Iris propagated vegetatively, dividing the rhizome of the bush into smaller fragments. When cutting, the knife must be constantly disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate. For landing units, it is better to choose shares with several annual units joined together.

You can also use not young plants, and old irises. Each slice should be treated with potassium permanganate, you can also crush the coal and wipe the cut place with it. The material is planted in the sand (necessarily dry) 2-3 cm deep.

It is better to plant the iris immediately after it has faded, because this period is the best for the development of the roots - they will take root faster.

Irises can be propagated by the seed method, but this path is usually chosen by those who want to grow a new “hybrid” of the plant, since such a seedling will bloom only after 2 years, therefore gardeners often use the vegetative method.

Irises - flowers of incredible beauty and very unpretentious both when planting and in caring for them in the open field. Irises will be a wonderful decoration of any yard and a real joy for their host. It is enough, as in any living creature, to invest in it a piece of the soul.

Which type of iris is better to choose for the site

It is no coincidence that fragile and tender irises got their name in honor of the goddess of the rainbow: these flowers surprise with a wealth of colors and a variety of appearance. In total there are more than 250 types of irises, of which at least 20 are actively grown in Russia. They attract experienced gardeners not only with their pretty appearance, but also with unusual flowering times. They seem to fill the pause between spring and summer flowers and are perfect for those who want to always see a blooming garden. With all the external fragility it is unpretentious plants, and the cultivation of irises in the area does not require much difficulty.

Requirements for growing root irises

Root and bulbous irises differ in their requirements for growing conditions:

  • Bulb varieties love heat and sunlight more, it is more difficult for them to organize an ideal environment for long flowering.
  • Root irises are less whimsical, and they find a place on the site much easier.

This type of plant has the following requirements for the place and growing conditions:

  • The soil should not be too dense. In order for the irises to grow well, it is imperative to add peat and sand to the soil, the mixture is thoroughly mixed with a shovel.
  • On acidic soils, irises produce leaves, but in this case they will not bloom.
  • At the same time, it is necessary to add ash to the ground or otherwise neutralize excess acidity.
  • In the ground, it is desirable to provide a drainage layer, since the common disease of irises is root rot.
  • At the same time, the iris is a moisture-loving plant, so it will have to be watered often. The ground should always be a little wet.
  • The root iris is a light-loving plant, but it does not like extreme heat. In the southern regions with a warm climate, it is quite possible to grow in the shade, while it will feel great and will give large flowers at a set time.
  • Excessive sun, on the other hand, can damage the leaves and cause the petals to fall.
  • Fertilizer in the soil will need to be made about a week before planting. The main type is nitrogenous fertilizers that need to be applied to depleted soil. At the same time, the amount of feeding should not be excessive.

Special requirements apply to planting material. If you have taken a young root silt bulbous plant, they cannot be wrapped in polyethylene or in wet tissue before planting. The roots start to rot very quickly, so they should just be stored freely until planting.

It is no coincidence that the strongest and thickest rhizomes are chosen for planting: they have more nutrients in them and the plant will calmly transfer the transplant to a new place.

Planting root irises: reproduction rhizome

Vegetative reproduction is used most often, since it is much less laborious than growing out of seeds, it allows you to achieve the desired result faster. The very next year after transplantation, the plant will begin to bloom. Delenki are used as planting material - this is the name of one-year-old rhizomes, from which the lower leaves are cut. Delenki gather after the summer bloom ends - usually this is the beginning of July. This time is the best for plant reproduction.

  • It is imperative to dig once every 3-5 years, as the plant will quickly begin to form a dense carpet in the neglected areas.
  • The flowers at the same time will become smaller.
  • Dug out the rhizome is freed from dry and diseased leaves, in addition, you need to carefully examine the root.
  • If it partially began to rot, all affected areas should be removed as soon as possible.
  • At the same time, the cut point should be filled with a mixture of sulfur and crushed coal - this will protect the root from further spread of the disease.

Planting material before placing on the bed is kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate: this is an additional protection from decay, it will help the rootstock to settle down better in a new place.

Parts of the rhizome on the bed have about 40 cm apart from each other, so that he would have enough space for growth. The earth is dug up to the depth of the bayonet, then the rhizomes can be located on the garden bed. Planting material is placed only vertically, while the kidney must remain at the surface level. You should not plant the plant too deeply, all the remaining leaves should be completely on the surface and placed vertically.

Root Iris Care

Iris is a perennial plant that requires regular, but not at all burdensome care:

  • Immediately after planting, the plants need to be watered well, and the next watering is carried out in no less than three days.
  • At first, before the root system grows, it is necessary to protect the irises from weeds: they are carefully pulled out with their hands there in order not to damage the root of the cultivated plant.
  • The soil should be loosened very carefully, parts of the rhizome will be located close to the surface.
  • After the roots have grown enough, it will not be necessary to loosen and weed the bed, as the weeds can no longer damage the flowers.

Iris requires care with a certain frequency, these rules will help you provide the best conditions for it, and the result will delight you with beautiful large flowers:

  • Mineral fertilizers should be applied to the soil three times: at the very beginning of spring, during the blooming of irises and a month after its completion.
  • Fertilizers are applied only to the dried soil in the required amount.
  • Every two weeks irises are sprayed from pests. This plant can be affected by thrips, which eats leaves. They become weak and oppressed, with them the wax coating disappears. Special protection will keep the green mass free from pests, besides, it is not a very common attack.

Far more often, plants suffer from diseases, among which the most common remains of rhizomes rot.

If the root begins to rot, it must be removed from the soil, removed the damaged areas and treated with the drug "Home". After processing, the iris root is dried for 12 hours in the open air. The most common cause of rot is waterlogging. Watering should not be excessive, and the drainage layer of sand under the bed will help remove excess water from the roots.

A common disease is gesteosporosis, which affects the leaves of a plant.

They begin to appear small brown spots especially often this can be encountered closer to the end of summer. Each affected leaf should be cut, and then the whole plant is treated with copper sulfate in the amount of 50 grams. 5 liters of water. In winter, the plants must be closed from the cold leaves, especially gentle varieties. With the beginning of spring, as soon as the snow melts, the “veil” is removed so that the plant has time for the appearance of leaves and flowering.

Rules for the care of bulbous irises

Growing bulbous irises is somewhat more complicated, as they are more demanding in terms of both the lighting mode and the amount of moisture. They need a sunny place, periodic abundant watering and fertile soil - this will provide the plants with rapid flowering with large buds. The most unpretentious type of bulbous irises remains Juno - it can grow even on stony soils, but it definitely requires the sunny side.

Onion irises bloom about two months: the first buds will appear in mid-May, and flowering will end in late June.

After that, the bulbs are dug. If after flowering to leave them on the garden, the bulbs will suffer from fungal diseases and will be unsuitable for further use. After digging, they are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and dried well. This planting material, which should be stored until September.

In September or at the very beginning of October, the bulbs are planted in the ground, after which they are covered for the winter. After wintering with the onset of spring, they will quickly begin to give shoots again. After such a cycle, you can expect real large buds, which will turn into a garden decoration.

Plant the bulbs about 5 cm from the soil surface.

Bulbous plants require more care than rhizomatous ones, since they do not like weeds and are afraid of pests. With proper treatment and care, the bulbous iris takes root well and does not cause any difficulties for the novice gardener. If the peduncles become too high, they must be tied up so that they do not break under their own weight.

What type of iris to choose for the site

Since there are many types of irises, many beginning gardeners are lost and do not know what to choose. If you are not satisfied with the usual bearded iris with blue flowers, you can decorate your garden with the following exotic species:

  • Yellow Queen - a variety of bulbous iris, which is considered to be iridescent because of the special colors. The main tone of the bud is yellow, but it differs significantly on the lower and upper petals.
  • Iridodictium Vinogradov - an interesting bulbous variety, with white petals covered with an interesting dot pattern. It will look unusual in the garden, and at the same time it is not particularly demanding to care.
  • Juno Bukhara - a plant with narrow petals and two-tone white-yellow buds. This plant looks surprisingly elegant, it is one of the most fragile and exotic varieties.

These are just some of the unusual types of irises that can be planted. For an iris, it will not be difficult to create comfortable conditions; they can grow even with moderate watering.

If you try to propagate irises with seeds, you can get the most unusual colors of buds - your own breeding work can be a real pride of the site owner.

Irises. Planting and plant care features

Iris or iris begin to bloom somewhere in the second decade of May, ending its bloom in early July.

To properly prepare the soil for their planting, you should carefully plan the site for planting.

In that case, if the location of groundwater is too close to the ground, it is necessary to drain this place. Since in the shade irises bloom badly, care should be taken to ensure that the place under the landing was sunny. Moreover, the flowerbed on which they will grow, it is better to lift it about 15 cm.

Fertilizing the soil before planting irises directly is not recommended. It is better to do this a year before landing. After mineral and organic fertilizers are applied to the soil, the soil is loosened, re-digging forks and building a bed with a slight slope to the south.

As for hybrids, for them the limit of growth in one place is 5 years. This is due to the fact that plants require more and more area due to their growth.

Cognitive article: Lupine, landing and care.

Read here the use of Potentilla white.

Iris transplant

Summer is the best time for planting irises. On the young link, the roots are still in their infancy, and their active growth begins somewhere in a week or two. Therefore, as soon as the flower bud begins to be laid, the layering is already firmly rooted.

Iris flower bud is laid in the summer, so they winter with the already formed buds. In the new season of these buds, new flowers will appear.

Not all irises tolerate good winter, for example, in delicate varieties, flower buds and rhizomes themselves can die at temperatures of -7 ° C and lower.

Usually, irises easily tolerate transplantation, and an overgrown bush of garden iris should be transplanted after 3-4 years, combining it with reproduction. Planted these plants after the end of their flowering, and as long as the flower bud did not have time to start, and the new links of the rhizome had already grown. Often it is August-early September.

Learn the methods of growing Turkish carnation.

Planting iris include a scapula, an offspring, a division or a fan - annual rhizome links with a diameter of 1-2 cm, root length - 3 cm. The leaves of this plant should be shortened to a third length, and the roots should be cut, leaving about 7-10 cm.

It should be with a knife to separate these links from the plant, while the bush itself is not necessary to dig.

After that, the rhizome is cut into landing delenki, consisting of one or two annual units intergrown with each other with leaves. The rhizomes of the iris delinko are disinfected for about two hours in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate, and then dried in the sun.

The leaves are cut in the form of a cone, so that they easily flowed water. Also shorten the roots, leaving the rhizome approximately 10 cm in length.

Remaining after digging a bush, old and completely healthy links, on which there are no leaves and living roots, are planted on a bed. Of these, dormant buds will sprout next year.

During planting should take into account that the rhizome should be at ground level. Depending on how long the roots are, they dig a planting hole of the required depth. At its bottom, a small mound is constructed, on which the roots are located. Pressing a seedling slightly to the ground, it is covered with a layer of soil.

After that, the plant is watered and, after 3-5 days, watered again. On too hot days, saplings are better at pritenyat. And for additional heating, you can position the delenka with leaves turned to the north.

Enotera perennial - a beautiful decoration of the dacha.

Varieties of irises

Varieties of this plant are very diverse. Distinguished by their flower shape, rhizome, leaves. Dotted irises and a variety of colors. Some of them are very similar to orchids. These plants have been blooming since May.

Growing irises in the open field gives the best result, if the varieties diversify. The set of varieties is rich. It has more than 200 varieties. Plants feel great in any of the climatic zones, even in northern latitudes.

Especially popular with fans of landscape design and summer residents, bearded irises. This name they acquired because of the unique look. On each petal there are outgrowths that look like a beard. Another name for this type of flower is “northern orchid”.

Plants of this variety bloom annually, multiply with the help of bulbs. They are very hardy, they are ill little, they have strong rhizomes. The color palette is quite diverse. In assortment: white, blue, violet and even yellow. Siberian irises are not susceptible to bacteriosis, and if the disease is contaminated by the soil, plants heal it for a couple of years.

In the conditions of open ground they grow well:

  • Undersized
  • Average height
  • High (up to 80 cm).

Russian irises. A variation of this type of flower has a slightly different look. The peculiarity of the variety is that the flowers have a pale shade. The plant can grow in soil with little watering. Landscape design is unthinkable without this sort, because it looks great in rocky conditions.

Japanese iris. Flowers of this variety are terry type. Very beautiful and unusual. This type of plant is divided into the following subgroups:

Winter these flowers do not like. They are susceptible to various kinds of diseases, and until spring most of the bulbs live rarely.

Plant this beauty

Planting and care for this type in the open field is the same, regardless of the variety. Marshy, Siberian, steppe. Each type of plant stores nutrients under any conditions, regardless of how the rhizomes are located.

First you need to choose a place where the irises will be planted. It is better if it is not blown by the wind, is far from drafts, it is well lit. The soil must be well drained.

The sun should fall on the back of the rhizome. Siberian irises, planting and care in the open field which is slightly different, should be in the shade.

Before planting the soil must be prepared in advance. Loam is desirable, sand can be added. Plants will be a wonderful decoration of flowerbeds, if you pre-fertilize the ground with peat.

Wet areas of flowerbeds will perfectly master the swampy varieties of culture. Cultivation in the open ground can be carried out by the tuberous method, or by means of bulbs. Plant care is not complicated.

Tuberous irises

Tuberous varieties are planted in the fall. Transplantation is carried out in the spring. As soon as flowering ends, you need to count a couple of weeks and dig up a few bulbs. Flowers must be moved along with the ground.

Transplants begin at the moment when young leaves appear. The bed, which will be carried out planting and care, should be prepared in the fall. In the ground should be compost, lime. In the spring you need to dig the necessary number of flower beds, as soon as the earth dries out, you can plant irises.

It should be noted that the planting of irises, which multiply by roots, in the open ground is carried out in advance. Training is conducted in August. No matter how it violated the design of the site, you need to dig up the flower beds. If necessary, add some sand to the ground.

You need to dig a small hole, put the rhizome on a mound and sprinkle with sand.Then cover with earth, but leave a part of the roots outside. Watering is carried out very abundantly. In the spring mineral fertilizers are applied to the ground.

Bulb irises

To plant the bulbs, it is necessary to dig a trench, and the soil that is released, must be mixed with the following components:

It is better to shed the grooves with very weak potassium permanganate and to lay onion on the bottom. No need to water. After you need to well tamp the ground and wait for spring. Flowers ascend to May, but it all depends on the climatic zone.

Planting bulbous irises is carried out in September - October.

The depth of the trench should not exceed 15 cm. One of the onion bulbs is made 8 cm, the one that is close by is 15 cm. The sharp tip should be facing up when landing. Cover the flowers with brushwood or use old leaves. As soon as spring heat comes, the compost is removed from the top and continues to grow, as the design requires.

Special requirements for the care of bearded irises

Growing this species requires knowledge of some rules:

  • Fresh manure before planting flowers in the ground do not need to,
  • If the soil is acidic, you need to lime it up,
  • Land must be loosened necessarily. Need for digging and making sand.

The root system of this type of irises deep in the ground is not planted, otherwise the flowers will not appear.

How to care?

Care for irises should be carried out systematically. Flowers should be watered regularly, pruned after flowering and preventive measures should be taken to prevent various ailments. These flowers can suffer a number of devastating diseases. Excellent care for irises provides a unique design of the dacha plot or the territory of a horticultural farm.

In winter, the care of irises is to save the roots. They are practically on the surface of the earth. Warm flowers with ruberoid. It is desirable to provide the possibility of airing. Dead plant parts from the beds, where there are irises, must be removed in advance, otherwise the infection cannot be avoided.

Growing is the introduction of feeding. This should be done, starting from the age of 3 irises, three times. Flowers fertilize in the spring. Phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium will be required. When the buds are tied, the irises need to be fed again.

Breeding process

Caring for irises involves this stage. Flowers they do not multiply. There is the option of breeding through seeds, but it will take a lot of time. It is advisable to propagate irises vegetatively. This is done in the spring in one of 2 ways:

  • Divide the roots of the plant,
  • The roots are cut into pieces, and those with buds are left to grow.

Iris, from which they want to get new shoots, is in danger. Malignant bacteria can enter the open root system and infect the entire flower. But onion varieties easier to propagate. You just need to separate the child growths.

What are these beautiful irises?

Iris leaves often infect the spider mite. Undesirable for plants of this type and dry air. Flowers, with a lack of moisture, affects thrips. In the hot period, the leaves and flowers of irises should be sprayed with water.

You can remove spider mites with the following drugs:

For irises, the invasion of ants is also undesirable. Insects easily damage not only the stems, but also the flowers. You can buy in a specialty store a product called "Ant". It is advisable to carefully study the information on the packaging and use the drug with great care. Irises are quite tender, chemicals can damage them.

You need to beware of the bear. This insect is a frequenter of the gardens of central Russia and the South. There are specialized drugs that help fight this pest.

In each area, irises can hit certain diseases. What is uncharacteristic for the South will kill irises in Siberia or in the middle lane.

Among the most common diseases of irises, which are ubiquitous: rust, rot (affects the roots), other types of bacteriosis. In appearance, the diseased plant becomes sluggish, leaves begin to fall, growth stops, and the unpleasant smell of damp emanates from the roots. If urgent care measures are not taken, the irises will die and the land in the habitat area will not be used.

So, irises are a rather unpretentious species, which feel great even in northern latitudes. Caring for these plants is simple. In addition to the necessary soil preparation, you need to take care of fertilizers and frequent watering, as well as spraying in a hot period. Planting plants does not cause difficulties.

The experience of planting irises and their care

author Voskresenskaya E., author photo

Irises are one of my favorite garden flowers. Irises stand out among other plants with the richest palette of colors - from practically black to snow white, and many of the most unusual combinations of flower color. Plus, the irises are distinguished by a magnificent smell, and each variety has its own!

The different height of the plants allows you to admire the irises both in the foreground of the flower garden, and in perspective. Although each flower deserves to come and appreciate it ...

To grow irises does not require large expenditures. Iris does not have as many diseases and pests as other garden plants.
In any case, the work of the grower to grow irises is fully justified!

In my garden collection, a large place is occupied by high bearded irises (TV). But gradually it is replenished with medium-sized bearded irises (IMB), and miniature irises (SDB), and Siberian irises.

The need for regular division and distribution of irises

If you think that caring for irises begins after planting, you are mistaken! It all starts with the preparation of the soil in which your pets will live and develop from two years to four years. It is not recommended to grow irises in one place for more than this period for several reasons.

First, irises are quite large plants that consume a large amount of nutrients. Naturally, if there are not enough of them, then the irises will begin to feel depressed.

Secondly, many irises quickly grow in breadth and begin to occupy so much space around themselves that they bump against each other.

Thirdly, the old iris rhizomes gradually die off, giving life to young plants. As a result, the middle of the iris bush gradually becomes bare, which is why the decorativeness of the plant suffers, and what's even worse - the rhizome can rot.

Experience shows that the optimal period of cultivation of most varieties of iris before digging and dividing the bush is 3 years, maximum 4 years. By this age, even the most floriferous irises usually bloom.

In my garden I had to observe such a phenomenon with irises several times.
High-quality planting of a new variety of iris develops well, winters, gives a lot of leaves and new delenok. But at the same time the iris does not bloom in any way: neither for the second, nor even for the third year. But by the fourth year, the floriferous variety breaks out with abundant flowering, and then blooms steadily and annually.

Selection of a place for planting irises

The easiest way to properly care for the planting of irises is not to scatter the plants in the garden. I advise you to arrange a special ridge, line or flowerbed, where all the irises will be together.

It is advisable to take for the irises the most sunny place in the garden. After all, irises are very thermophilic and sun-loving, this is due to the starchy structure of their rhizomes. Therefore, the best thing the iris feels is in the sun.

Preparing the soil for planting irises

Preparation of soil for planting irises should be done in advance, about a month before planting.
Carefully remove all weed roots.This will make it easier for you to care for irises in the future - it is desirable that the iris planting should always be clean. Weeds not only take valuable substances from the soil, but also create excessive moisture, which can lead to rotting of the roots of irises.

Before planting irises, I recommend improving the quality of the soil, for this purpose (per 1 square meter):
- make a large amount of well-rotted humus on the bed, at least a bucket,
- scatter 1-2 glasses of wood ash and half a cup of superphosphate on the ground,
- scatter a bucket of sand.

After making all the components that improve the soil, it is necessary to dig everything in with a pitchfork and water it abundantly.
Then, once a week or more often, I water the soil abundantly, so that the earth will settle, and the superphosphate will dissolve, we will spit out the weeds that have appeared.
You can ease this job by immediately tightly covering the watered earth with a film so that there is no air access and leave it until the plants are planted, preventing the soil from drying out. Thus, under the hot July sun, all microbes, harmful bacteria, seeds and weed shoots in the garden bed die.

Ridge or flowerbed for planting irises should be raised (10-15 cm) so that water does not stagnate, which is dangerous for irises.
From above, it is advisable to pour more sand (a layer of 3-5 cm), which will inhibit the growth of weeds and provide bactericidal functions.

Digging and separation of iris rhizomes

The overgrown irises in the garden must be rejuvenated in time and transplanted to maintain lush flowering. When it is time to do it, it is better to divide your plantings of overgrown irises in the middle lane in the third decade of July.

After ottsvetaniyairisov feed their plants in July at least once.
In case of drought I water the irises very copiously (after 10 days).

So, if your irises have grown enough and it is time to transplant them, or you just want to propagate the variety you like, at the end of July you can dig up and divide the bush.

To dig irises is best forks.

How to plant irises? Planting Irises in the fall, care in the open field

I dig the dug-out plant off the ground and divide (break, cut) the large rhizome of the iris into planting delenki. They may consist of one or two-year links with roots and a fan of leaves.

Older rhizomes of the iris, devoid of roots and leaves, as a rule, are not used for planting. But if necessary, they can be planted by pre-powdering the cuts with charcoal, and then they can germinate the following year.

I disinfect all cuts and fracture spots with wood ash for disinfection, cut off a fan of leaves (10-15 cm) and all old roots (10 cm) so that the future plant gives as many new roots as possible.

Delenki irises for the prevention of disease can be disinfected (for example, in a strong solution of potassium permanganate) and be sure to dry in the sun.

Sun baths for irises

Dug out plants before planting need to be laid directly in the sun for 5-7 days - this kills the bacteria and dries the old roots of irises. And the greening under the influence of sunlight of the iris roots (like potato tubers) contributes to the active preparation of planting material for the formation of new roots after planting.

The iris planting material received by mail must be dried well before planting as described above.

Planting irises

Water the ground before planting irises.
Mark the place of landing irises by the number of landing units. Note that the recommended distance between the planted iris delices should be at least 50 cm.

When planting irises, it is important to remember the correct location of the delenok. In the back of the iris leaves should be located to the north, and the rhizome will grow towards the south, being well lit by the sun.

When planting an iris, its thick rhizome does not need to be buried; it should remain on the ground.

We take the taffy iris, it is correctly located in the garden.With a spatula we make indentations in the soil from one and the other side of the rhizome. We place iris roots in the excavated pits and cover them with earth, leaving the upper part of the rhizome flush with the soil surface.

For stability, you can fix the planted iris divider with a metal bracket.

Label the varieties of iris planted with tablets or tags, including this will help fix the characteristics of the development of varieties in the conditions of your garden.

Care for planting irises

To planted irises normally rooted, young plants should be watered at least once a week if there is no natural precipitation.

Regularly weed the bed with irises if weeds appear.

Planted in late July, by the end of August, delenki irises should take root. To test this, easily pull up every deal up - it must hold tight in the ground.

I stop watering the rooted irises of the irises so that the young plants are well prepared for the winter.

In late September, cut the leaves of irises (up to 10-15 cm), _ best in the form of "house".

Late autumn, when a stable temperature is established (below +5 degrees), the irises can be slightly rounded up for the winter with earth, peat or humus. But in the middle lane usually do not necessarily.

The best winter natural protection for irises is snow. Spend snow retention on the bed with irises, sketching branches or spreading lapnik.
You can make more complex shelters of valuable varieties of irises. But, as experience shows, hidden and uncovered irises in our strip overwinter in the same way.

Evgenia Resurrection (Kazan)

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Article continuation

Most species and varieties of irises differ in comparative simplicity to the methods of cultivation. They do not require winter shelter, are content with precipitation in the summer, at one place they grow 5-10 years without loss of decoration.

The exception is the most modern varieties.bred in America, in areas with a mild climate. But they are so great that it is worth paying them more attention.

When talking about irisesmost often imply bearded or hybrid irises, which are currently widely distributed in homestead and suburban areas of amateur growers (rice 2).

Bearded irises are planted in sunny areasprotected from the wind. They grow well on light neutral or slightly acid soils. Do not tolerate close standing groundwater.

React positively for mineral supplements, which are produced 2-3 times per season: the first time at the beginning of regrowth, the second - at the beginning of budding, the third - 10-1-5 days after flowering.

The first and second feeding nitrogen-potassium (20-30 g of ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 and the same amount of potassium chloride), the third - phosphorus-potassium (50 g of superphosphate per 1 m2).

Hybrid Iris Root System superficial, so the plants are afraid of higher doses of fertilizers. Top dressing is carried out on moist soil with loosening, and in the second half of summer it is stopped. If the irises grow well, then in the first year after planting they can not feed.

Possible diseases of the iris

It is better to refuse organic fertilizers, as they are one of the factors contributing to the development of bacterial rot - the most dangerous disease of the hybrid toffee.

At the damaged plants rhizomes rot, then the base of the leaves. As the disease progresses, the rhizomes disintegrate, turning into a pasty mass that emits an unpleasant odor.

Possible pests of iris

Irises are more resistant to pests than to diseases. Caterpillars of winter and kasatikovoye butterflies infect leaves, flower stalks and flower buds.

Gladiolus trippe settles in tightly compressed leaf sheaths of irises and damages the leaves. The length of its body is 1-1.5 mm, so it is often not noticed. The leaf at first loses a wax raid, then grows brown, dries and becomes covered with a brown crusty layer. Reduced tab stalks.

With a strong defeat, the development of the flowers themselves is delayed.. Spraying of plants with pesticides gives a good effect in pest control.

Frost protection

The best anti-frost protection for iris The hybrid is snow cover. Unfortunately, now winters with reliable snow cover are the exception rather than the rule. Therefore, especially valuable low-resistant varieties need additional shelter.

The easiest and most accessible way to protect plants Powder rhizomes is a layer of soil at 7-9 cm. This is done in late autumn before the onset of frost. In spring, the soil is removed from the rhizomes.

How to divide the Siberian irises, landing

Recently, Siberian irises (rice 3).

Siberian irises, unlike hybrid bearded, do not have bacteriosis. Their strong root system improves the physical properties of the soil and heals it.

Siberian irises are cold-resistant: winter without shelter, bloom profusely every year. These are plants of wet habitats. Can grow on light sandy soils, and on heavy loamy. Preference is given to rich humus, permeable to soils with slight acidification.

Fig. four. Siberian irises:
1 - division of rhizomes of Siberian iris,
2 - landing units (on the left - weakened, on the right - reinforced)

Transplant siberian irises usually in August-September or early spring. When transplanting, it is important not to let the rhizomes dry out.
Old bushes are torn or cut into delenki, which have 3-5 leaf bundles and rhizomes with well developed roots. The roots and leaves are shortened by 2/3 of their length (rice four).

Plant delenki to a depth of 5-7 cm, well compacted soil around and watered. Planted plants the next year give a great effect.

author G.S. Borodich, curator of iris collections

Growing iris in the open field on the plot: features of the variety

Irises do not like places near large trees, prefer well-drained soil, so choose places where there is no stagnation of water, including during the melting of snow. Irises feel very good in new places where they had not previously grown. Good air circulation is essential for good health. If the soil is clay, it is better to plant irises on a slope or to provide drainage.

When planting, the iris should be deepened by 1-2 cm only in particularly hot regions or in regions with a severe winter. Optimum planting of irises at soil level, i.e. the top of an iris tuber should not be covered with earth. For good flowering, it is also good to completely remove the lateral leaves, exposing the tuber neck. The distance between irises about 40 cm, when planting, compact the soil well to fill the air pockets. Freshly planted irises should be watered regularly several times a week until new growth appears. The main enemy of irises is rot, so it is preferable to rare, but deep watering, than frequent surface watering. Mulching is not suitable for irises, the only care is weeding.

When fertilizing irises, you should use a complex fertilizer with a reduced nitrogen content, and an emphasis on phosphorus. Too much nitrogen, though it stimulates flowering, but also causes rot. Fertilizer should not fall on the rhizomes. Be careful with the compost: well-rotted horse manure is suitable for irises; it saturates the soil with phosphorus and microelements, while cow's contains many bacteria that can lead to rotting of the rhizomes. For irises, slightly acidic / neutral soil pH 5-7 is good.In acidic soils, irises grow well, but may not bloom.

Planting irises should be seated every 3-4 years. It is recommended to wait 3-4 weeks after flowering. It is better to cut the rhizomes with a sharp knife, rather than tear them. Cut the roots to 10 cm. All sections of the rhizome should be dried in air overnight, the sooner the rhizome is planted back into the ground, the faster it will recover.

Contrary to what our grandmothers did, do NOT cut the green leaves in the fall. Iris loves cool weather and continues to grow until the foliage turns brown, it can be used as a shelter for the winter in cold regions (but be sure to remove it in early spring!). Dead and diseased leaves can be cut at any time.

Removing stems after flowering can prevent rhizomes from rotting!

Dwarf iris or "steppe cockerel" grows wild in the Mediterranean countries and in Western Europe. The height of this plant does not exceed 30 cm, the leaves are juicy, green, basal. The plant is very decorative, and in early spring your plot will look very attractive if you plant it with dwarf irises.

Dwarf irises - this is a very beautiful and unpretentious plant, for which does not require special care. Irises are propagated either by dividing the rhizome or by seeds, but the seed path is more lengthy and troublesome. It is much easier and faster to propagate dwarf irises by dividing the root.



Growing irises for cutting is not widespread in our country. More often they are used to decorate gardens, parks, personal plots, landscaping streets. If you grow irises in the garden, then, with all the magnificence of individual varieties, in general, decorative planting is not too high. Many lovers of irises, calling for help fiction, tend to create a beautiful corner in his garden. There are various elements of garden design: soliter landing, mixborder, rabatki, slides, ponds, mini-iridarium.

Creating compositions, do not forget about the weak competitiveness of bearded irises. Well-growing perennials easily suppress them. The selection of neighbors takes into account the surface location of the roots of bearded irises and their “love” to the light. If you grow irises on the lawn, they will be quickly suppressed by the roots of the grass and stop blooming. Having planned a complex and beautiful combination of perennials, in practice you can fail if you don't take into account the biological contradictions between the plants. In complex multi-species plantings, bearded irises are a weak link and need constant help from a gardener. It is necessary to ensure that leaf fans develop freely, at least 7–9 leaves are laid, which guarantees abundant flowering next year. Special care is not required for Siberian or swamp irises, they can stand up for themselves.

I would like to offer you some decorative ideas from the famous irisovod from St. Petersburg, Professor G. I. Rodionenko and the artist from Moscow I. F. Stepanova, passionate about this culture.

Iris is perfect for a separate landing - tapeworm. On the background of a lawn or shrub a magnificent bush of any variety of bearded irises looks magnificent. During flowering, 10–15 peduncles simultaneously open 20–25 flowers. You can make a group of several plants of different varieties. In this case, the combination of a two-color variety with one-color, repeating the colors of its petals looks interesting. For example, two-color white and blue (Wabash), white (Russian snow), blue (Blue Monarch).

Often irises include a group of simultaneously flowering plants. Effective is the contrasting combination of white or blue iris with a bright red poppy oriental. Exquisitely looks a combination of tone to tone yellow irises and daylily. Such groups can be supplemented with bergenia, whose green leathery round leaves throughout the summer are an excellent decoration.

Five or six groups made up of tall, medium-sized and dwarf bearded irises can become a magnificent decorative element of any backyard plot. Separate groups of 3-5 shrubs of high and medium-sized irises of top-class are spectacular. The distance between the groups is 1-1.5 m. Such groups of irises look good against the background of dark loosened soil (for the period of flowering, it can be sprinkled with peat chips).

You can create beautiful compositions, complementing groups of irises with phlox, bristly, sedum and kamnelomkoy, interspersed with bulbous (daffodils, tulips, crocuses, lilies), using stones with a decorative purpose. Perennials, which are used in joint plantings, should not exceed the irises in height and shade them, and their roots should be located at a greater depth.

Planting irises is very animated by stones of various shapes and sizes. Iris flowers blend harmoniously with stone. Many species like stony soil and grow in nature on scree, among boulders. Dwarf irises, both wild species and hybrids, are great for creating slides (rockeries). Other miniature plants are also grown with them: stonecrops, saxifrage, creeping phloxes, low-growing tulips, crocuses. Beautifully look blue, yellow, brown irises against a creeping Cossack juniper. Dark varieties are a contrast to light stones. Looks good next to the irises of the blue-eyed eye with its light blue flowers and numerous narrow leaves. You can successfully grow on the hill irises spuria: grassy and Pontic.

For large slides fit and medium-sized bearded irises. Tall irises violate the proportions of rockeries. If, however, it is necessary to plant particularly thermophilic varieties of hybrid garden irises on the southern slopes, they need to be balanced by larger plants - peony, daylily.

The combination of irises, stones and a small reservoir looks picturesque. Even a tiny artificial pond (dug bath) will create the impression of a wilderness corner and optimal conditions for moisture-loving irises. Iris grow well in water swamp and smooth. Siberian, bristle-bearing, Japanese irises are placed near the water body.

It is necessary to closely monitor the growth of swamp iris, otherwise it will overwhelm the neighbors. Floating leaves and exquisite water lily flowers will decorate the watery surface. Moisture-loving plants - forget-me-nots, primroses, marigolds, swimsuits, astilbe - will complement the composition placed around the reservoir. Blue bristle iris goes well with primroses in orange-red tones. The peculiar rosettes of the host, the dark green leaves of the cleaver and the bright green creeping shoots of the kopecker are the perfect backdrop for irises.

What “toffee” does not dream of a large collection, of the most beautiful and rare flower?

How to place these plants in your small garden area? If time allows you and you have enough strength, arrange a garden of irises, or mini-iridarium. In contrast to the usual flower beds in the iris Iridaria, the main role is assigned: 70–80% is due to irises and 20–30% to other plants.

The selection of the collection shows the imagination of the grower: you can only collect “savages”, or only fringed irises, or varieties with different flowering periods. Well arrange iridarii in the recreation area to admire him, sitting on a bench. And you can create original natural corners, where the leading culture will be iris. Arrange at the same time a reservoir and a hill on an area of ​​approximately 40 m2. Here you can place 60-80 bearded irises, and the pond has up to 10 moisture-loving ones. The combination of the slide and the reservoir is also justified by the fact that the earth, taken out during the digging of the pit, is used to set up the slide. Pick up plants so that they, replacing each other, decorated with iridariums all season.

The composition of irises can be subminiature. In containers you can grow 3-4 types of irises, complementing them with other plants.Such portable compositions can be placed in a resting place, near a garden house, gazebos. Japanese irises even recommended to grow in containers, tubs, as this facilitates the care of them.

If you have shaded, wet areas in your garden, place here lush Siberian bushes, marsh and other moisture-loving irises, along with a catchment, ferns, bathing suits. Bearded irises in shady places grow poorly and do not bloom.

You can offer a very large number of planting schemes, which enliven even the old garden with the existing straightforward layout. Try to plant irises in the form of long rectangles - rabatok. The rest of the plants should be selected in accordance with the requirements of irises to soil, moisture and light.

In mixed plantings, problems of a combination of colors of flowering plants at the same time inevitably arise. In this regard, you can give the following tips:

• not have a number of irises of similar colors,
• delicate, pink irises do not work well with bright colors, such as red poppies,
• two-colored irises planted side by side look too motley, restless,
• dark-flowered varieties are in harmony with delicate cream, pink, pale blue,
• plants with light leaves are a good background for dark irises,
• in flower beds the unifying color is green, often use plants with beautiful foliage,
• various shades of leaves (bluish, bluish, reddish) enrich the decorative plantings.

A hot fan of irises, I. F. Stepanova, offers a flower garden of bearded irises in pastel colors (bluish-lilac-blue). The remaining plants are selected in the same range. Only lilies make additional colors - yellow and orange.

A scheme of a bright flower garden from various varieties of bearded, Siberian, spuria and marsh irises in combination with many other tetanuses is also proposed. In the foreground, stunted and medium-sized irises alternate with other low ornamental plants. Higher Siberian irises are located on the second and third plan. Peonies, daylilies, lilies, lupins, hosts, which bloom at the same time as the irises and preserve beautiful leaves throughout the season, enliven the plantings.

Irises: species, planting, reproduction and care in the open field

For spring flowering between dwarf irises, it is good to plant out primrose and bulbous groups (crocuses, muscari, daffodils). Plants are selected in such a way that flowering lasts a half to two months.

The above schemes should not limit the flight of your fantasy. Sometimes nature itself tells the observant person how to create a beautiful garden. And do not forget that everything that is invented and grown by you can be offered to the buyer.

Karpov A.A. "Irises" / Rostov n / D: publishing house "Phoenix", 2001. - 96 p.

How to transplant irises in the fall?

Some varieties of iris-iridodictium boast a delicate pattern on the leaves.

The same need arises when growing hybrid plants, at three to five years of age.

. Looking ahead, for example, if the delenki do not select, the flowers grow thick carpet.

Preparation of pits for irises: planting and care in the fall

How to determine the disease in bearded irises? Usually a healthy plant has a bundle of 7–9 leaves, whereas in a patient no more than 5 can be found. A problem occurs with the formation of flower buds. For treatment, the plant is dug, cleaned from rot and insects, treated with an antiseptic. If the irises are affected by thrips, the natural wax on the leaves is disturbed.

Irises - care after flowering

In fact, care for irises in this period is very simple:

Garden iris - a perennial plant, loved by many gardeners. Unpretentious flower survives perfectly and easily tolerates wintering. Exceptions can be hybrid varieties, as well as flowers grown in regions with a harsh climate.Beginner gardeners naturally have a question: “How to care for irises in the fall?” For advice, we turn to professionals who will share with us the secrets of growing these beautiful flowers.

Irises: care after flowering

Olga, if you have a warm autumn, you can plant bulbous irises in the fall, but they should be covered for the winter. Build above them a light shelter of spruce branches or dry oak leaves. Planting technology and further care - as for all bulbous plants. And the root irises are best planted in pots, which should be kept indoors at a temperature of 7-8 degrees. Must well overwinter. Planted in the soil, these rhizomes will need in the spring.

  • Iridodictium Vinogradov
  • It is possible to spray iris pests every 2 weeks (if needed). Spraying is most effective 6 weeks before flowering. Usually it is not necessary, pests are not the main enemy of the cock, worse with disease.
  • Should be planted shallowly so that the kidney was at the surface, the leaves should stick up vertically. The top of the rhizome can not be covered with earth.
  • Prevention consists in competent preparation of the bulbs for the next year - removal of the old stem along with leaves, peduncles and flowers, in which harmful insects may remain.

Pruning irises after flowering

In the spring, after the snow melts, we wait until the top layer of the soil has completely dried in order to add fertilizer. Ready-made solutions and dry universal mixes, for example, Reasil or Good Power, will do. Put the required amount of top dressing in the upper layer (or just scatter on the surface of the soil around the bulbs), then carefully loosen, trying not to hook the roots.

Top dressing irises after flowering

Bulbs varieties "Juno" are of large size and the presence of fleshy, annually updated roots, which should be handled with great care. If the roots disappear, the plant will die. The best period for planting onion irises in open ground is the last week of September or the first decade of October. The bulbs are gently lowered into the pits, so as not to damage the roots, and sprinkled with a layer of earth up to 6 cm thick.

Autumn - time planting bulbs

In the dry summer you should water blooming roosters in the evening. Water should not fall on the flowers. In windy places, tall irises tie up. They may break.

These plants are extremely unpretentious. Bloom up to 2 months, and some varieties bloom again in the fall. Especially magnificently these perennials bloom in the 3rd year. And winters are not afraid. That was the former field flower city.

The same composition, but in a different proportion (3: 3: 1) - at the time of bud formation,

The distance between future plants when planting can be different: the minimum is considered a gap of two widths of the bulb (as a result a thick bush is formed), the maximum is up to half a meter (usually single irises with lush buds are planted this way).

Sample flowerbed with irises: 1 - hyacinth Pearl Voice, 2 - tulip Flashpoint, 3 - Narcissus New Baby, 4 - Iris netted Kantab, 5 - Scylla Siberian Alba

Using a plastic basket for growing

Seedlings should be seated at a distance of 30-40cm from each other.

Water and properly transplant.

If you live in a region where there are severe frosts in winter, then try to acquire varieties of frost-resistant irises. Look at what irises grow in your neighbors, how they tolerate winters. If you have a good relationship, ask them for a sprout when transplanting. Such a plant will take root at 100%.

We somehow didn’t immediately work out with irises (iris), or didn’t particularly ascend, or inadvertently dug up in the spring, now there is a little resistant (pah-pah), judging by the photo - it looks like Chocolate

Your flowers will be healthy if you love them. Have a great season!

Do not forget to separate delenki after flowering.Usually this is the only compulsory element of care for cockerels. Go

How to care for irises?

Love the sun, moisture and well-heated, fertile, loose soil. The most unpretentious to watering view - Juno, she loves arid places. However, heat is critical for her. Sunny rocky hills - the best place.

Maybe for some it will be a discovery, but under the name "iris" actually hiding some very similar in appearance, but different plants: root iris and bulbous iris, which is divided into xythium, iridodictum and Juno. Each of them has its own characteristics.

Mineral fertilizers

Potassium, phosphorus (1: 1) - 1 month after the beginning of the flowering period.

In the supermarket you can buy a simple but very convenient basket for growing bulbous crops.

  • Irises like sunlight, but some of the time can be spent in the shade, so it is advisable to split the flower garden in a non-shaded or slightly shaded area. Before planting, the soil is enriched with organic fertilizers, then carefully dug up and loosen. Manure is usually paid in advance, about a year before planting.
  • For the prevention of various diseases, the roots of the delenok before planting should be well inspected, washed and immersed in a dark solution.
  • Immediately after the flowers have bloomed, flower stalks break out at the base of the bush. Only when the first frosts come is it necessary to cut the leaves of the iris after flowering, as well as during planting. If the leaves turn yellow earlier, they will need to be cut.

In order to plant well rooted, it must be properly planted. To do this, it is necessary to make a small mound in the prepared pit on which to lay the rhizome, while straightening the roots well on the sides. The plant is planted to a depth of no more than 3-5 cm. There must be a distance of 30-50 cm between the bushes. The ground around it must be compacted and well watered. In spring you will be pleased with beautiful irises. Planting and care in the fall give better results than at other times of the year.

"Iris" - the so-called high yellow wild iris. We (in the Volga floodplain near Samara are not rare. It grows in flood meadows, often next to wild blue iris (this one is shorter). Often, at the water level of lakes and marshes, and even Volga!) It is listed in the Red Book as a disappearing plant. Very moisture-loving - as opposed to cultural. But not less beautiful - very large flowers! The forester transplanted the iris from the swamp to the porch - caught on!

Other articles about irises:

There are about 250 species of root irises and tens of thousands of varieties. 20 species are popular in Russia, among them bearded, dwarf, Japanese, blue. We started talking about unpretentiousness. This is about the most common in our bearded bettas. There are tender exotic irises. All the subtleties of care, described below, belong to these rare species. Go

Preventive Pest Control

Bulb irises bloom mainly from May to the end of June. After flowering, somewhere in July, when the leaves dry up about half, the bulbs need to dig. The main thing is not to miss the moment, if the bulbs pour rain, they will become very susceptible to fungal diseases. The dug bulbs are washed in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate or another fungicide, dried quickly and stored in a dry ventilated room until mid-September.

Root irises are light-requiring, but not fond of

Regular and properly dosed dressing guarantees high decorative qualities, rapid development and long flowering. One of the most important periods in the life of a plant is the formation of flower buds. Fertilization at this stage provides a lush, full bloom in the next year.

In order to remove part of the sod, we put the plastic basket on the desired area and around the circumference with a shovel or scoop draw a contour to a depth of 12 cm

Ideal soil for bulbous - lime.An alkaline reaction is provided by lime, chalk, or eggshell, which have been digged into the ground during digging. It is better to dilute the sandy soil with humus, ash and about 40 g of superphosphate (calculated per 1 m²) will not be superfluous. Clay, on the contrary, it is better to dilute the sand of a large fraction and add a little humus or compost to enrich.

Types of irises

With all the unpretentiousness of irises, they cannot be planted in heavy soil. Add sand and peat, peel this mixture well. If frequent rains are possible, consider draining the soil. Then you will avoid the most unpleasant for irises disease, rotting of the roots. Earth digs up on the spade bayonet. Fertilizers (if necessary) are applied a week before planting.

Watch out for the amount of nitrogen. The excess of this substance causes "fattening" - a process when leaves develop remarkably, but flowering is completely absent.

Fill the planted bulbs with a thin layer of earth and return the seized piece of sod back. Thus, the bulbs will spend the whole winter in favorable conditions.

Place of planting flowers can not be changed for about 10 years, hybrid varieties - 5 years. The ability of irises to grow rapidly leads to a deficiency of nutrients in the soil, as a result of which a change of place is required, that is, the transfer of a flower bed.

The period after the blooming of irises is considered favorable when these flowers should be cut and planted, since, having made it in the summer, it will be possible to be sure that they will get stronger before winter and will survive it well.

How to prepare such a sprout? To do this, cut a third of the entire length of its leaves and shorten its roots to 8-10cm. Under the landing you need to plan well in advance. The place should be sunny, as in the shade irises do not bloom. A flower bed or a bed on which irises will grow is better to lift by 15 cm. Organic and mineral fertilizers should be applied to the soil for planting (but manure should not be applied). If the soil is acidic, you can add wood ash. After that, re-dig a plot of land and make a flower bed with a slight slope to the south.

If you follow simple recommendations, spring irises will delight you. Planting and caring in the fall for these plants will give you a kind of guarantee that you will admire the many colors of these delicate plants in the spring.

Marina, thank you so much for the article. I have a problem with irises now. A dozen years ago I transplanted a large array of irises to another place (more open to the sun), and they pleased me for several years with beautiful blooms.

Pink bearded irises

Care is the same as for other perennials. At first, weed out the weeds, as the root system of flowers is located on the very surface of the soil. Loosen must also be neat. When the plants grow, weeding and loosening the bearded irises will not be needed. Bulb species require more care.

When bearded irises fade away, it is necessary to select delenki, one-year-old rhizomes, usually with cut leaves. This is

Despite the short flowering period, the cultivation of bulbous irises is accompanied by protective measures. To prevent the emergence of unwanted parasites should be on duty spraying plants every two weeks. It is necessary to start from the period when the leaves reach a length of 10 cm. Usually, Malation (helps from herbivorous mites) or universal toxic chemicals are used. With the beginning of the appearance of buds processing is stopped.

The basket is convenient in that it can be easily removed from the ground and moved to the room for drying, together with the planted bulbs.

First of all, we invite you to watch a video on the topic:

Irises are not particularly demanding, but there are several points that should be considered. They are not recommended:

When planting delenok or sprouts should follow the following rules:

IRINA, Moscow

This flower is popularly called killer, and in a scientific way - iris.He has bright large flowers of various shades on high legs, filling the flower garden from the second half of May to the beginning of July. This is a perennial plant, but in order for it to bloom well the following year, then after flowering it is necessary to ensure proper care for the iris.

Irina, Bender

In the past, in the 14th year, the flowerbed was overgrown with dreams, wheatgrass, even black-fruited raspberries crawled out of a nearby growing bush ... Therefore, this spring I decided to plant everything, not waiting for July, I was afraid that I would not cope with the overgrowths. Helped her husband, a man with green fingers. And, oh, horror, in both beds the leaves are 15–20 cm high, they dry out from the tops, literally a couple of rhizomes were allowed to have flower stalks, also low. At the same time, several rhizomes of another variety and color, transplanted in the same week elsewhere, have already bloomed magnificently. In the failed transplant, too, everything seemed to be done correctly: the backs were not buried, and they poured on the same day. What happened, what to do? Or have patience until next year? Or something to feed? The soil is loamy, but we add 1-2-year humus to all the beds and flowerbeds. Please advise it is a pity to tears, although the varietal plants there did not smell, we buy everything on the market. Thanks to all. Go

Marina, Nekrasovskoye

I have fallen in love with irises recently ... A friend of mine dug up rhizomes during flowering and advised after planting to cut flower stalks ... I was suffering, but I had to do it, it turned out to be such a faceless green flowerbed. But the next year, the irises pleased me with many colors - pink, white, chocolate, yellow bearded irises, just a fairy tale, the very charm of spring. ... Thank you, Marina, I really liked your photos, and I learned a lot of useful information from the story! Go

Valentina Sergushina, Monastyrschina

In addition to timely planting and preparing the soil, care is needed for the plants during their flowering: early irises begin to bloom in May, and later irises begin to bloom in June. Competent care for bulbous irises consists in regular feeding with fertilizers and protection from pests. Another point of care for flowers - watering. During the rainy season, the irises should not be watered, and in dry times moderate irrigation is necessary strictly in the evening.

Features of planting depend on the variety. In temperate climates, iridodictiums, Turkish and Caucasian, as well as their hybrids, take root well and survive the winter. We choose a dry, open place and dig shallow pits - up to 7 cm. We fall asleep the bulbs so that the soil adjoins them loosely, and it is better to add some sand to its composition. To protect plants from fungal diseases, purchased bulbs are pretreated with Fundazol or Benlat. In the summer, after the death of the stem and leaves, we separate small daughter bulbs, which are necessary for further reproduction.

The rhizome of the germ should be placed on the same level with the ground, and the leaves should stand vertically.

Consider what to do next after the irises have bloomed.

I love the irises very much and I want to plant, but I don’t know if the place will suit them at the bottom of the plot. In spring, during a flood, it is wet there, sometimes it even floods the river with water by 5 to 10 cm. At other times of the year it is dry, the soil is light, sandy. The site I got started up and now there is a meadow. Which varieties should I choose? Thanks who will respond.

Hello! I also love irises very much, I have few of them (7pcs.), But I have already managed to transplant them several times. I can not find them companions. At first they were just sitting on the lawn with me, which very much prevented my husband from cutting it, so a couple of times the iris was cut without having had time to even bloom. The second time I planted them next to roses, I didn’t like this combination either. Now they are sitting on a small bed of me with geyher, roses, lilies, daylilies, phloxes, a detritus and a couple of cereals (assorted). Although this is the sunniest place, it looks medium ...

In bulbous irises, xypiums have a smaller flower size, but there are plenty of varieties too. Especially distinguished are the luxurious Dutch varieties, such as the broadleaf Blue Champion, Ideal, Symphony and the narrow-leaved Seafire Beauty, Yellow Queen.

It is possible to fertilize only the dried up soil. There are soils that do not need fertilizer. Another land requires 3 different fertilizing with mineral fertilizers: in early spring, during the period of bud ripening and one month after flowering.

Secrets of planting, growing and caring for bulbous iris (Dutch)

This flower is called the most romantic bulbous plant. It looks like a fabulous butterfly, which accidentally sat on a green stem and decided to soak up the warm sunshine for a bit.

Call this amazing flower - iris. We decided today to tell about it to fans of garden flowers.

Consider one of the species of this magnificent flower - Dutch bulbous iris: planting and care.

Secrets of the cultivation of Dutch bulbous irises

Iris (translated from Latin) - rainbow. In Russia, lovers of these flowers affectionately call them "iris" or "cockerels". From the roots of this flower, the essential oil has long been mined, which had a pleasant aroma and was used in cosmetology and cooking.

Mostly irises plant along the garden paths and along the edges of the flower beds, but we advise you not to dwell on stereotypes, let your imagination run wild

Iris differs from any other garden culture in its rich color. One of the species of these wonderful flowers - the Dutch iris - perfectly transfers the neighborhood with other inhabitants of the flowerbed, without requiring individual care.

Here is an example of creating a simple flowerbed with iris: 1 - Pearl Voice hyacinth, 2 - Flashpoint tulip, 3 - New Baby narcissus, 4 - Cantab net iris, 5 - Siberian Alba Scylla

What you need to know about Dutch irises

Dutch iris belongs to small-bulbous plants, that is, it propagates with the help of small bulbs.

Tip: Bulbs should be bought in specialized stores, packs of 3-5 pieces. The color of the material should be golden, not have dark spots, mildew and soft areas.

  • These flowers are very sensitive to excess moisture. At home, the bulbs, after flowering, are in the dry land all summer. We, on the contrary, often have rainy seasons and wet soils. If not to take measures, the bulb of an iris can rot in the earth.
  • Irises are dug up immediately after flowering.
  • These flowers have a rather short growing season. They bloom early and stop flowering in the second half of May or at the very beginning of the summer season.
  • Love irises dry and bright places.

Planting irises in the basket for bulbous

To begin with, let's consider the method of planting bulbous irises in a special basket.

A basket for bulbous looks like this (its cost, as a rule, does not exceed 50 rubles). Put our basket on the ground and shovel or other tools around it

On the contour, which we did, remove the sod. And we should have a pit with a depth of 12 - 14 centimeters

Fertilizers such as superphosphate are desirable to be applied to the bottom of our pit. Then set the basket, fill it with earth mixed with compost. Now we plant our bulbs

Carefully fill our bulbs with earth and wait for the shoot of these beautiful flowers.

Planting Dutch Irises: A Step-by-Step Guide

Step # 1: Bulb Preparation

Before planting the bulbs, it is advisable to dip or soak for half an hour in a solution of manganese or fungicide. This is necessary to stimulate the planting material and disinfect the bulbs. Before processing, the old dried roots should be cut off.

Step 2: Preparing a landing site

The soil for irises cannot be chosen fat and wet. If your beds have similar soil, you should raise the level of the flower bed by 10-15 cm, using dry soil with compost and fertilizer.

While our bulbs are soaked, we have time to prepare the landing site.Plant irises recommended bouquets. To do this, take round areas with a diameter of 30-40 cm. We dig up the earth with compost and mineral fertilizers. It is advisable to prepare in advance the seats, but it is not terrible if the earth is prepared in the process of landing.

To the note: since the irises are dug out already in May and, at the latest - the beginning of June, their place of stay can be filled with other flowers that bloom all summer. For example, land a velvet ribbon, which takes root very quickly.

Step 3: Plant the bulbs

In the prepared and loosened soil deepen the iris bulbs. It is recommended to plant at a depth of 3 bulbs. Between the landing holes should be 5-10 cm.

Tip: to enhance the decorative effect of the iris flower bed, you can plant several flowers in one circle. It turns out a beautiful multi-colored bouquet.

Step 4: Mulching

After deepening the iris bulbs, it is necessary to mulch the fertile soil. The mixture for filling is prepared in advance from a compost with mineral fertilizers (0.5 cups of fertilizer per meter plot). Backfilling is done in a layer of 5-10 cm.

In addition to Dutch varieties of irises, there are still a large number of them, for example, Siberian irises - they are highly frost resistant, therefore they are suitable for northern regions

Care for seedlings and blooming irises

  • After planting, the irises should not be watered, especially if the terrain is wet and often there is morning dew. If the summer is very dry, you can water the seedlings not too plentiful.
  • When the rest of the flowers around you need watering more often, cover the planting area with polyethylene or something else to prevent water from entering the wells.
  • Iris should be fertilized before flowering in about a week when future buds begin to form (seals appear between the leaves). We use mineral mixtures as fertilizer. It is advantageous to take ready-made supplements with calculated doses and instructions.

If you do not want to buy fertilizer in specialized stores, you can easily do it yourself.

After flowering, the bulbs are dug out and must be stored in dry places until planting in the autumn for the winter. If the winter cold is too severe in your area, the bulbs should be well insulated or even stored in the sand on the balcony, basement or in the refrigerator.

Iris is a very beautiful and original flower, so gardeners have long since accepted it into the ranks of their flower gardens' favorites. Known for more than 2000 years, the iris does not cease to inspire breeders to develop more and more new varieties. If at least once you decide to plant these flowers on your bed, you will love their delicate and elegant flowering forever. Good luck!

Secrets of growing Siberian irises

The most practical and hardy of all irises are Siberian. The beauty of their flowering and the variety of species and varieties are not inferior to bearded, but, unfortunately, they are still significantly inferior to the capricious congeners in terms of prevalence.

Reliable, durable, durable, requiring minimal care and surviving without it, Siberian irises form spectacular curtains and flaunt a wide palette of watercolor colors from delicate blue and purple to purple, cream, purple, rich blue.

Elegant, suitable for decoration easy-care gardens, varietal and species of Siberian irises can pleasantly surprise you with the ease of farming.

Choosing the right lighting is a guarantee of success.

Siberian irises can be grown not only in the middle belt, but also to the north: they are considered to be a unique species that can be successfully cultivated throughout Russia. They are equally elegant and bloom beautifully both in the south and where summer is short and winters are extremely harsh. Beautiful bright leaves and numerous flowers - an ideal, which can be achieved without vigilant care.

Siberian irises belong to the light-loving cultures. Particularly sensitive to the lighting of plants in the middle zone and to the north, where it is better to plant this crop in the open, bright, warm and most sunny areas of the garden.

In the south, Siberian irises may suffer from midday rays and it is better to choose locations in which plants will be lit in the mornings or evenings, areas with ambient lighting. Siberian irises will not die even in thick shadow, but will not be able to bloom with a lack of sunlight.

The lower the light, the later and less abundantly these representatives of the iris genus will bloom.

They are not afraid of wind and drafts, flower stalks never lie down, and beautiful thick clumps and long xiphoidal leaves do not fall apart.

Soil for Siberian irises

Practically any soil will be suitable for growing these killer pigs: even the initially unfavorable conditions can be easily compensated by adjusting care. The only thing to avoid is excessively poor, extremely acidic or alkaline soils. Even the characteristics of dry, dry, constantly wetlands can be improved.

It is most comfortable for irises with good moisture retention, fairly dense, but treated and high-quality soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Loams with a high content of humus - a great option.

Siberian irises feel good on ordinary flower beds and mixborders, but no less colorful in unfavorable circumstances for other irises - in low areas with high humidity and short-term flooding (wetting is acceptable only in spring and summer), in elevated and windy areas. On swampy, constantly overwetted soils, it is enough to lay quality drainage for them, on excessively dry it is only necessary to include supporting irrigation in the care program, and add sand and organic fertilizer to the sandy ones. Moreover, the Siberian irises themselves actively improve the soil, providing a disinfecting effect and beneficially affecting its characteristics.

Landing rules

Before planting Siberian beauties should not be too lazy to once again dig up the soil and, if necessary, adjust its characteristics. When digging should carefully choose the rhizomes of weeds.

The optimal distance for irises - from 60 cm to one meter between curtains. Siberian irises annually grow lush curtains, expanding to a width and a decade after planting, their volume can exceed 2 meters.

On specific growth rates and the optimal distance to neighboring plants, you need to remember to clarify the information when buying: this group of irises has both rapidly growing varieties and hybrids that grow very slowly and occupy less space.

The landing itself is quite simple. The rhizomes of Siberian irises, unlike bearded irises, need to be buried in the soil so that about 3-5 cm remain until the surface.

Planting pits dug individually, their size should correspond to the size of the rhizome. It is set carefully, trying to ensure that when the tenements are not bent roots.

Immediately after planting it is better to mulch the soil with any available material (grass, peat, compost).

Necessary Siberian irises care

Siberian irises will decorate the gardens, even without minimal care, but with care they will gratefully respond with abundant flowering and beauty of leaf curtains, releasing up to 200 flowers on a single plant. But even the most meticulous care cannot be called anything other than modest and non-choreographed.

Very important for these irises are top dressing, which will allow you to get a truly impressive number of flower stems. For beardless irises, it is advisable to use fertilizers that acidify the soil — ammonium or potassium nitrate, for example.

Bring in top dressing 2 times a year, immediately after the snow melts at the very beginning of spring and immediately before flowering, when the flower stalks begin to appear (if you miss the deadline, it is better to postpone the second dressing until the flowering period is over)

For these plants, it is desirable to constantly maintain the mulch layer: Siberian irises like their rhizomes to stay cool. Every year, you need to pour the soil to the rhizomes to maintain the usual level of penetration.

Watering is carried out as necessary to maintain light soil moisture and drought. Siberian irises are not afraid of the latter, but will respond only with gratitude to watering during flowering.

There is no need to worry about the fact that regular procedures will complicate garden care: Siberian beardless irises prefer rare procedures with deep soil impregnation.

Pruning plants is reduced to the removal of peduncles and the pre-winter cut of leaves..

It should be carried out only with the arrival of extreme cold, when the process of planting flower buds has already stopped, and the leaves are marked by the breath of winter. The foliage on derninka pruned at a height of about 10-15 cm.

If you doubt the timing - leave pruning in the early spring: it is quite possible to hold before the first feeding.

Reproduction of Siberian irises

For this group of killer whales, only one breeding method is applicable - the separation of adult plants.

The timing for the procedure is quite simple to choose: the optimal time for digging Siberian irises is a period of complete rest, occurring approximately 1 month or a little more after flowering.

Transplantation and separation can be carried out from mid-August and early autumn, under favorable weather conditions until the end of October.

The separation procedure itself is not too complicated. At the curtain you need to cut the leaves to 1/3 of the height and dig up the bushes with as much preservation as possible of the earthy coma. After examining the rhizome, plan the future delenki, leaving in each of 3-8 fans.

The plots are carefully separated from the excavated plant with a sharp knife or shovel and transferred to a new place as quickly as possible. For irises, it is permissible to dry rhizomes, but in this case, before planting them, soak them in water until the tissues are fully restored.

Conduct pre-soak from several hours to 2-4 days.

Need for transplant

Siberian irises - one of the most durable members of the family. They do not lose their decorative effect for decades, do not require transplants and constant rejuvenation. At one place, provided there is enough free soil to increase the volume and with at least minimal care, they can bloom tirelessly even at a respectable age of 20-30 years.

How and when to transplant irises

Irises can be planted in three ways - rhizomes, processes and grow from seeds. To get plants from seeds is the longest and most difficult way. In practice, it is much easier and faster to grow flowers by dividing the bush and shoots. At the same time, plants grown from rhizomes will bloom next year, and seed plants will have to wait another 2-3 years.

How and when to transplant irises:

  • The best time for transplanting is early spring, that is, March-April, before flowering,
  • flowers propagate by dividing rhizomes and sprouts.

Transplanting irises in the spring to another place is carried out using only healthy and strong plants that will quickly and easily become established.

Rhizomes are removed from the ground and divided into parts so that each individual rosette has one leaf bud. Excess foliage should be trimmed. Before planting the roots for a few minutes immersed in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

Dried rhizomes are planted in shallow trenches or small landing holes at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other.

In vegetative propagation, the iris should bloom at least once. After this, until the budding stage, young shoots can be taken from it.Root new plants should be in time from March to May in the shading place, creating greenhouse conditions. Full rooting can be observed after 2-3 weeks.

Irises can be grown from seeds. In the fall, seeds are sown in a pot with a sandy substrate, covering it with polyethylene or glass. By spring, the seeds germinate, they dive and planted in open ground.

When to plant irises in the open ground in the spring? The optimal time to land in the ground is early spring, the month of March and April.

By this time, young landings have grown up enough, will be able to quickly and fully take root in the ground.

Irises in landscape design

High decorative qualities of irises allow you to plant them on flowerbeds and mixborders, along fences, on flower beds and rockeries.

An ideal place for them is on an elevation where there is no stagnation of moisture and there is no close adherence of groundwater. There are low-growing and high types of irises. Tall plants are usually tied up so that they do not break down and hold the bud well.

Dwarf irises grow in a solid wall, they require periodic cutting and watering in dry weather.

Irises in landscape design photo:

Knowledge of the rules of planting and caring for irises in the open field will allow you to easily grow these plants in the garden. When you see an iris, you don’t want to rip it off at all, you want to admire it endlessly, inhaling the delicate and delicate scent of a flower.

Secrets of the care of irises

Lush, all colors of the rainbow irises, especially hybrid, tall, bearded, are increasingly conquering the hearts of flower lovers and conquering their admirers from Kaliningrad to Sakhalin. These flowers are unpretentious, but still something does not hurt lovers of irises to know. Let's find out how external factors influence the development and beauty of irises.


Irises are light-loving plants, but can tolerate light shade from trees. But with strong shading can stop blooming, although the leaves will develop.


Bearded irises can be attributed to sukholubivymi. They are afraid of excessive moisture, but during the period of budding and flowering, they need good watering, which helps to prolong flowering and decorative foliage. But it is desirable to water them in the evening. Watering the plants during the day will do more harm than good.


The irises have different resistance to cold. It is known that by the end of summer rhizomes are bare and are located on the soil surface. Therefore, before the onset of cold weather, it is desirable to cover them with earth or rice husk for 7-10 cm, and in the spring to otgresti. They are not afraid of spring frosts to -5 ... -7 ° C.

Irises also react to high temperatures in the southern regions: when the soil temperature is + 40 ... + 50 ° С, the irises stop their growth. They can also fold foliage, stop the growth of roots and the development of lateral shoots. In this case, it is necessary to water abundantly so that the earth is soaked by 20-30 cm, but only in the morning, so that the bases of the leaves dry out during the day and the bacteriosis does not develop.


So you bought the planting material. It is advisable to prepare the soil in advance, seven to nine days before planting. The best soils for irises are loams. If the soil is heavy, then before digging add sand, peat, rotten compost into it. In wells add fertilizer for indoor plants "Black Pearl" (acts as a yeast). Dig the soil to the depth of the spade bayonet, select all the weeds.

The best time for dividing the bushes and planting is two to three weeks after flowering, but no later than September 10-15. With a later planting plant will not have time to take root.

When planting in any case, do not deepen the rhizomes! The distance between delenki should be at least 30-50 cm, depending on how often you will seat them. Between the rows - 50-60 cm.

If you purchased or received by mail over dried material, before planting, soak the rhizomes for two to three hours in a solution of Zircon, Appin, or in a solution of pink manganese.

After planting, be sure to water the plants, even if it rains, so that the earth is well compacted around the roots. After two weeks you will notice that one leaf in the fan has grown by 1-3 cm. This will mean that your iris has caught on.

Until spring, I’m not feeding the new ones. Only water and loose.

After the irises bloom, I will surely break out all the flower stalks so that they do not put off the food. Some flower growers, along with the removal of flower stalks, also cut the leaves by a third. I do pruning in the fall.

At one place the bush can grow from two to five years, no more. At this time, need periodic feeding and treatment of disease.


In the spring, I plant a compound fertilizer for planting irises: nitroammophos, Nitrobor, Yaromila (according to the instructions), and spray foliar with Planttifol twice a month. Radipharm, Previcur, Strobe, Raykat (according to instructions) act well as a supplement.

These drugs can be used in the same spray tank along with agents for diseases such as Alto-super, Dylan, Rodomilgold, and fungicide solutions: from leaf spot, heterosporia and rust.

But it is necessary to dilute these preparations in different containers and only then to mix.

In August-September, I use other drugs to feed: Plantifol, Agrifos, Atlanta plus. Atlanta Plus is a phosphate-potassium fertilizer that increases the resistance of irises to bacterial and other diseases (50 ml per 10 liters of water). I fertilize twice a month.

For soaking rhizomes before planting or on the sheet after planting, Raykat-start (15 ml per 10 l of water) plus Agrifos (25 ml per 10 l of water) work well.

The drug Atlanta (50 ml per 10 l of water) is used in preparing the plants for winter, when there is an outflow of nutrients to the roots. It improves wintering conditions.

Today there are many good preparations, but it would be nice to do a soil analysis and find out what elements are missing in it. Analysis of soil acidity is important.

Council from the "Economy"

What is your soil, you can determine the growing weeds. If a lot of wood lice, convolvulus - the soil is acidic, milkweed, sow thistle - neutral, portulaca - a lot of phosphorus. If the soil is acidic, do not add ash.

I wish the irises to winter well in your gardens, and in the spring they will delight you with a rapid flowering. I invite everyone to bloom in my garden in May.

Sincerely, Nadezhda Ivanovna Rebro

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Watch the video: Planting Iris (February 2020).